October 20th 2014
AW14 Trend: 5 ways to master graphic eyeliner
October 6th 2014 / 1 comment
Prepare to shun safe for graphic this season when it comes to your eye makeup with inspiration from the Fashion Week catwalks
From Zac Posen to Kenzo and Jean-Pierre Braganza to Rag & Bone, graphic eyeliner proved to be the ultimate way to update your feline flick this season.
“It’s not the obvious manner of framing this season. It’s the opposite,” says makeup artist Val Garland. “This time around we are seeing a lot of rectangles, squaring off: it’s about exploring different non-traditional ways of doing a line.”
If crisp, sharp lines seems a look that’s best reserved for the more experienced, think again - the more experimental, the better. “It’s worth investing time to practise your signature eyeliner - make it your own unique style!” says Sharon Dowsett, Maybelline UK Makeup Director. “Practice makes perfect but the result doesn’t have to be - haphazard application is all part of the fun.”
Surprisingly easier than it looks, here’s how some of our favourite eyeliner styles were created backstage plus the products that you need and some valuable makeup tips from the pros for giving your eyeliner a modern, on-trend twist.
“A deconstructed take on 1940s glamour with a punk edge,” was the way MAC lead makeup artist Kabuki described the winged eyeliner look he masterminded at Zac Posen. Using a MAC 205 Mascara Fan Brush, £16.50 he created an artful sweep of black horizontal lines with MAC Pro Black Crème Liner, £14 (0870 034 2676) across the eye. They were swept through the inner lid and crease, avoiding the middle of the eyelid and continued from the outer crease and winged upwards to frame the eyebrows. Eyelashes were left naturally bare for a more youthful finish.
For a way to recreate this look when short on time, the Tom Ford Eye Defining Pen, £42. offers two different sized tips (one larger and one for more calligraphy style detailing) to give a slick, foolproof and professional finish.
As statement as this trend first appears, just a subtle tweak can make all the difference. This point was showcased no better than at Tanya Taylor. According to NARS International Lead Makeup Stylist Uzo, “This season, eyes were brought to the forefront and given a modern, graphic edge by lining them in jet black with an unexpected break in the middle on the lower lash line.”
She used a combination of NARS Via Veneto Larger Than Life Eyeliner, £19 and Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil, £16 on upper and lower lash lines. The secret lies in leaving the rest of the makeup simple, “Skin is super-clean and fresh with a touch of pale pink on the lips and cheeks,” said Uzo.
Proving that this trend can come in many shapes and colours too, a bolt of blue was the shade of choice backstage at Kenzo. The inspiration was described as, ‘1950s with a slight punk edge,’ by lead makeup artist Aaron De Mey and the eyeliner he chose was MAC Pro Marine Ultra Chromaline, £14 which was drawn through the upper lash line and over the lid to exaggerate and lift the eye area in a modern way.
To waterproof this look, try Eyeko Making Eyes Gel Eyeliner in Midnight Blue, £15.
Rag & Bone
“I was really inspired by the French Yé Yé girls of the sixties, so this look focuses on a bold eye with luminous skin,” said Revlon Global Artistic Director Gucci Westman at Rag & Bone. “I started with a crème liner and then went over it with a liquid liner to create a more precise line. But this is not your typical cat eye; this look is about pushing it to the edge with a more graphic liner,” she added. Her weapons of choice were Revlon ColorStay Liquid Eye Pen in Black, £6.29 and ColorStay Crème Gel Eyeliner in Black, £8.99.
Jean Pierre Braganza
“A tri-liner brings toughness to a classic, elegant liner,” said makeup artist Terry Barber at Jean-Pierre Braganza. His eyeliner of choice was MAC Pro Black Crème Liner, £14 (0870 034 2676) which was drawn along the upper lash line with an elegant and elongated flick and then along the lower lash line and elongated as well.
The additional ‘tri’ line was drawn underneath to finish to mimic the lower lash line.