June 29th 2018
Do you need cholesterol in your skincare products?
May 25th 2017 / 0 comment
Still life by Ian Skelton
It may have a bad rap as far as diet is concerned, but there’s every reason to search for skincare products containing this strengthening and protective ingredient. Here’s why
Should you be scared of cholesterol in your skincare? While high levels can incite a certain level of fear and trepidation from a health perspective (having been linked to increased risk of heart disease, stroke, diabetes and other conditions), from a beauty perspective, perceptions are quite different. In fact, they’re actually pretty favourable due to some of the industry’s biggest brands drawing attention to its skin strengthening and protective abilities by incorporating the ingredient into many of their products.
Why is cholesterol important?
Already present in our skin, cholesterol plays a major role in supporting and boosting our barrier function. What does a stronger skin barrier mean? Ultimately, a more resilient first line of defence against environmental aggressors and an increased ability to retain moisture. “A fragile barrier means a tendency towards drier skin and therefore more wrinkles, dull skin (lack of tone) and sagging,” explains Dr Pedro Catala, pharmacist, cosmetologist and founder of TWELVE Beauty.
The outermost layer of the epidermis is the focus for its activity. “When you think of cholesterol as it relates to diet, there can be certain negative connotations. However, research shows that it actually plays an essential role in the skin’s epidermis, better known as the stratum corneum,” explains dermatologist Dendy Engelman. Ceramides, cholesterol and lipids are key players in its make-up, with their respective proportions certain to come as a bit of surprise to many. “While ceramides represent about 50 per cent of the skin’s lipid layer, cholesterol actually represents about 25 per cent of the lipids in this layer, with other fatty acids making up another 10-15 per cent,” highlights Dendy.
How do they work in synergy to support good skin integrity? “Collectively these lipids act like mortar in a brick wall, with the ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids binding skin cells – which are the ‘bricks’ in this analogy – together,” explains Dendy. Think of them as the glue that keeps the barrier intact and the skin’s foundations, sturdy.
Who is it good for?
Due to its skin strengthening abilities, Dr Catala identifies delicate, sensitive and dry skin types as the ones that will benefit most from cholesterol-containing products. Age-wise, he highlights those over 50, but recommends earlier use in order to reap greater rewards later on. “The levels of natural cholesterol in the skin start decreasing dramatically from our mid-fifties, so it's an essential ingredient to incorporate into our skincare at this age,” advises Dr Catala. “For optimal benefits however, I always recommend incorporating it from your late 40s in order to prepare and strengthen the barrier before the levels of cholesterol start decreasing more rapidly.”
What should you look for in your labels?
“Most cholesterol-containing products will simply say ‘cholesterol’ on the label,” notes Dr Cantala. “You might find that it’s from an animal source (i.e. animal fat), or of vegetable origin, the main source of which is squalane (the basis of TWELVE's Purifying Cleansing Beauty Cream, £22).”
Kiehl’s counts olive fruit derived squalane as a key ingredient in many of its products, with its Midnight Recovery range a favourite in the GTG office. The latest addition to the line-up, the Botanical Cleansing Oil, £32, leaves skin incredibly silky and dirt, oil, sunscreen and makeup eradicated. Teamed with its award-winning Midnight Recovery Concentrate, £49.50, well, the duo makes for the stuff of night time skincare dreams. For more of our tried and tested non animal-derived squalane buys, check out our ingredient focus feature here.
For a triple threat of skin strengthening goodies, products combining cholesterol with other barrier-boosting ingredients also makes for an effective option. Epionce has long used this ethos in its formulations, using a ratio of 3:1:1 for its cholesterol to ceramide to free fatty acids content in its Renewal facial line. “For the skin to be healthy, it is more than just moisturisation,” comments Carl Thornfeldt, dermatologist and founder of Epionce. “It is about the skin barrier being healthy and intact. These cholesterol-dominant products were created to not only provide the correct amount of moisturisation to the skin, but also to help restore the health of the skin barrier.”
This multi-pronged approach can also be seen in Elizabeth Arden’s new Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum, from £39.
Containing cholesterol, fatty acids and ceramides, we saw great improvements in both skin texture and hydration levels after continued use. With each biodegradable capsule containing the perfect amount to cover face and neck, it makes dry and uncomfortably tight early morning skin a thing of the past.