August 27th 2014
Heavy metallics: the statement winter smokey eye
December 30th 2014
This season’s smokey eye comes with a twist, courtesy of molten metallics, alloys and bags of attitude. Here's how to master the trend at home
From golds to silvers to bronzes, metallic and smokey eyes reigned supreme on the AW14 runways.
An edgier take on its more traditional predecessors, the key to mastering the trend lies in combining an assortment of different textures, colours and finishes to lids. Don’t be shy when it comes to your mascara – the more the better and as for the rest of your makeup? Bend the rules and throw a bold lip into the mix too, (although perhaps go easy on the blush…)
A trend that’s all about experimentation and being a shade braver when it comes to your eye makeup, we took a peek into the kit bags of the pros who created the trend-setting looks backstage to compile all the tools and techniques you’ll need to nail your smokey eye this party season and beyond. Here’s how…
Oscar de la Renta
Courtesy of Revlon
The Look: Bold, dramatic deep brown eyes teamed with subtle contouring and natural-looking lips.
The Inspiration: “I wanted the girls to be fresh-faced, easy and very natural,” said makeup artist Gucci Westman. “I was inspired by modern street wear, it is a look you can wear anytime.”
Backstage Makeup Tips: Gucci’s kit bag comprised of Revlon ShadowLinks in Cocoa, Taupe and Onyx, £2.99 and ColorStay Liquid Eye Pen, £6.99 and Crème Gel Liner, £8.99 – both in black. “I really focused on blending in the colour for the smokey eye effect,” she said. “The overall look is effortless but still sultry which worked well with Oscar de la Renta’s Fall collection.”
The Look: A red metallic smokey eye that mixed a hint of gloss with a touch of grunge.
The Inspiration: “90s The Face magazine” said lead makeup artist Hannah Murray. “She’s tough. Her makeup lived-in and shows attitude…colours are ruddy. Burgundy on eyes and lips with wet, glossy skin.”
Backstage Makeup Tips: Hannah mixed MAC Deep Brown and Terracotta Studio Finish Skin Corrector, £12.50 with a bit of MAC Pro Mixing Medium Shine, £16 and buffed it into the skin for a rich contour around the eyes.
For added depth and definition, the charcoal Phone Number Eye Kohl, £14 was drawn through the upper lash line and smudged through the lower one too. Stay Black! False Lashes Waterproof, £19 was her mascara of choice, with MAC Pro Mixing Medium Shine applied over the eyelids and clear Lipglass, £14.50 in the inner corner of the eye to provide a wet, glossy finish.
The Look: A lighter and reflective eye makeup look, which turns the traditional smokey eye on its head.
The Inspiration: Makeup artist Diane Kendal described the look that she created as the “Ethereal, pretty, iconic, Chloé girl.”
Backstage Makeup Tips: It was all about layering different textures and products to create the almost pixie-like feel of this look. The mauve MAC Breaking Ground Cream Colour Base, £15.50 was firstly applied to the eyelid, with Beautiful Iris Eye Shadow, £13 blended on top for a lavender wash.
A deep brown was then applied through the crease, outer corner of the eye and under the outer corner of the lower lashes. The Breaking Ground Cream Colour Base was then also applied through the lower waterline and the outside of the inner corner of the eye too for extra dimension. The pièce de resistance though came courtesy of the shimmering pink mauve Kitschmas Pigment, £17 which was pressed gently into the inner corner of the eye to highlight and brighten.
For another colour choice, why not kill two birds with one stone and team metallics with this season’s blue makeup trend? Laura Mercier Eye Shimmer in Crushed Lapis provides a quick dose of sophisticated shimmer that comes with a handy pint-sized brush to make application a doddle.
The Look: A deep and sultry bronzed smokey eye.
The Inspiration: “A glamourous, dramatic and sexy Anjelica Huston inspired makeup for Matthew Williamson,” said makeup artist Lisa Eldridge.
The Backstage Makeup Tips: The golden sand Benefit Longwear Powder Eyeshadow in Gilty Pleasure, £15.50 was applied all over the eyelid and up to the brow bone. The deep brown Kiss Me, I’m Tipsy was then used above the socket of the eye blending outwards for a winged effect.
Black BADgal Waterproof Liner, £15.50 was used along the waterline, the top lash line and under the bottom lashes and blended with Kiss Me, I’m Tipsy for a smokier finish. To highlight a little more Gilty Pleasure was applied to the centre of the eyelid and a tonne of They’re Real! Mascara, £19.50 to open up the eyes.
If you’re on-the-go, look no further than the Bourjois Smoky Stories Quad Eyeshadow Palette, £7.99 which offers 4 shimmer and matte shades in a portable compact that you can just pop into your handbag.
The Look: Intense matte brown smokey eyes with Twilight-esque skin and dark gothic lips.
The Inspiration: “This is delicate and youthful beauty,” said makeup artist James Kaliardos. “The look is ephemeral and nostalgic creating a beautiful glow.”
Backstage Makeup Tips: Eyeshadow and mascara were all that were needed for this stand-out take on the trend. The chocolate side of NARS’s Dolomites Duo Eyeshadow, £25 was James’ shade of choice, with the finishing touch coming courtesy of the Larger The Life Lengthening Mascara, £19 to sculpt and enhance eyelashes.