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London Fashion Week SS15 - Day 4
September 15th 2014
We report live from day four of London Fashion Week September 2014
Makeup: It was all about multi-dimensional lips this season with makeup artist Val Garland and her team for MAC Cosmetics using a paintbox of MAC Lip Glasses, Pigments and sparkles to create a cellophane high shine lip lacquer.
Inspired by Roxy Music album covers and Jerry Hall, the finished look was high shine and high impact with each model given a bespoke colour ranging from salmon to watermelon, bright red to burgundy. The team even changed the shade that each model wore for their 2nd outfit change.
Brows were brushed up and eyes were left bare with MAC Prep + Prime, serum and moisturiser applied to models' skin to make it look healthy and glowing.
Hair: Lead hair stylist Eugene Souleiman and Wella Professionals created a Geisha inspired updo to complement the Asian theme of the SS15 collection.
Mixing military strictness with softer touches using a combination of textures, the team spritzed Ocean Spritz to models' hair and pinned a front panel close the the head, applying hairspray to the roots. Hair was secured into a ponytail and folded up on itself, leaving flyaways to fall to make it look more effortless.
The devil was in the detail for a 360 degree look that looked beautiful from all angles.
Nails: Nail technician Marian Newman and MAC Cosmetics sought to create a cellophane veil with a pink undertone for nails at Antonio Berardi. She wanted to give the illusion of almost being underwater and applied 2 coats of MAC Transformations Liquid Pigment in Pink Pearl to fingers and toes for a grown up nude with an unexpected flash of colour.
Makeup: Following the hair's minimal look, makeup was kept fairly stripped back. Using MAC’s Select Moisturecover, makeup artists concealed only where needed and then gently buffed Urbanist eyeshadow from their SS15 palette, into the eye for a haze of cool taupe and applied a small amount of Mixing Medium Shine on top. They used the Mixing Medium Shine again, but on the lips, and buffed Select Moisturisecover concealer around the edges of the mouth.
Hair: Masterminded by L'Oréal Professionnel Luke Hersheson, hair at Roksanda was kept minimal to complement the collection’s graphic clothes. Luke explained that Roksanda always looks so gorgeously put together, and so, he wanted to create something that she would wear herself.
The team freshly washed and blow-dried the models’ hair and spritzed in Tecni.ART Pli to act as a setting agent. All of the girls were given a low side parting and the hair was swept from the crown forwards, and then carefully tucked behind the ear, before spritzing Tecni.ART Fix Anti-Frizz from a distance. The hair was then loosely straightened to look naturally straight and finished with Infinium hairspray.
Nails: MAC’s sporty nude, Faint of Heart, was the colour of choice. Nail artists applied two coats to toenails and one coat to the hands. They maintained the natural shape to the nail.
Makeup: Inspired by an obsessive and beautiful botanist, who works constantly in her greenhouse, the makeup at Erdem was romantic and outdoorsy, with an ever so slightly 'mental' edge. Focusing primarily on creating a fresh complexion, NARS Matte Multiples in rose and apricot shades were applied on the centre of the cheeks for a ruddy, healthy glow while either NARS Luxor Mars or Copacabana was used to enhance and highlight the cupid's bow. To finish, NARS Matte Multiple in Siam was applied on the centre of the lips giving a doll-like quality, or even the appearance of a rose bud ready to bloom. A touch of the metallic shade in the NARS Adoration Dual Intensity blush was also applied to the lips to leave a shine, as well as a matte quality. The eyes were left natural and un-enhanced.
Hair: The quintessential Erdem girl, the hair was romantic, soft but with a slightly frantic edge. Each model received a set of long hair extensions to add thickness while a touch of L'Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil was applied to give a rich, lustrous quality. Formed into a centre parting the hair was then pulled over the ears into a long braid which was then pulled apart to leave a more dishevelled, lived-in finish.
Nails: Both the hands and feet were given a single wash of Essie Carousel Coral by nail expert Jenny Draper. With no particular shape created and left slightly rough around the edges, the girls looked as if they had painted their own nails - the anti-manicure, if you like. Once painted, a few drops of acetone were applied to each nail to both mattify the shade and add a 'ghostly', chalk-like appearance to the surrounding skin.
Michael van der Ham
Makeup: Makeup artist Sam Bryant and MAC Cosmetics made the eyes the focus of the look by applying gold, pewter or electric blue crystals onto models' eyelids so that they looked almost wet from a distance.
A palette of soft, subtle beiges were used on face and lips, with MAC Studio Sculpt Foundation applied as a base and Pro Sculpting Powders that were four shades darker than models' skin to sculpt, highlight and contour. Pink and yellow Prep + Prime Highlighter Pens were used to colour correct any uneven skin tone, Lip Erase was applied to lips to reduce any redness and MAC Pro Paint Pot in Camel Code was applied on eyes. Lashes were curled and skin was left powdered and matte.
Hair: The matte textured updos created at Michael van der Ham by Luke Hersheson and L'Oréal Professionnel was ethereal, romantic and effortless for the perfect accompaniment to a long flowing summer dress.
To achieve the lived in texture, L'Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Fresh Dust dry shampoo was applied. Hair was then pulled back into a messy bun with fingers rather than a brush to maintain its effortless look, with Tecni Art Air Fix Spray spritzed onto cascading flyways to give the hairstyle a whimsical finish.
Nails: Katie Jane Hughes and Butter London created a stunning ombré glitter design for nails backstage using the greige Yummy Mummy and Dubs at the tips. One or two coats were applied depending on each model's skin tone with either Butter London Handbag Holiday Cuticle Oil or the new Cuticle Balm used to finish.
Makeup: The lips were the focal point of the beauty look at Burberry with makeup artist Wendy Rowe applying a beautiful rose shade to models lips to complement the 'The Birds and the Bees' theme from the SS15 collection. Lining lips with red lip pencil first, she then applied Burberry Lipstick in Ruby to intensify the colour, holding a single ply tissue to the mouth and finishing with a dusting of translucent powder to make it matte.
Skin was softly bronzed and sun-kissed, so that models looked like they'd spent an aftenoon in the garden.
Nails: Nudes made way for pinks and teals as the nail colours of choice for this season's show. They acted as the perfect way to highlight the colourful prints in the SS15 range. Fresh, bright and chic, here's hoping that the teal in particular becomes the nail colour of SS15.
Hair: Natural, laid-back waves took centre stage paired with an off-centre parting that looked effortless and ethereal. With models sporting a wide range of different hair lengths and colours, the runway showcased a showreel of hair inspiration from Jourdan Dunn's long bob to Malaika Firth's and Suki Waterhouse's longer styles.
Makeup: Romantic and mysterious, the makeup at Issa showcased 'half moon' charcoal smokey eyes, teamed with gorgeous, glossy skin. Lips were kept fresh and healthy while the brows were brushed upwards and left natural.
Hair: The hair was kept stylish and sleek, with the models given a clean, strong centre parting that was pulled back into a straight, no-nonsense ponytail that ran low down their backs.
Nails: Nail Technician Shreen Gayle was armed with a collection of Essie polishes to provide the ultimate nude nail combo - can it ever be beaten?
Makeup: Debuting the new Christopher Kane for NARS collection backstage at this season's show, the look designed by makeup artist Lucia Pieroni was radiant, luminescent and understated. The new violet-hued Multiple was applied to highlight, on the cupid's bow and on the centre of the lips. Talking about the collaboration Christopher Kane said, "NARS has been a long-standing and valued partner of ours, so this collaboration was an obvious fit."
He added, "NARS has the same unapologetic aesthetic that is signature to the Christopher Kane brand and I'm excited to share what we've created together."
Hair: Hair was sleek, straight and pared back, tucked behind the ears and completed with a centre parting. It had an almost just-been-washed quality about it.
Nails: Creamy nude NARS nail polishes were spotted backstage...
Makeup: Described as effortless and raw, the beauty look created by makeup artist Lucia Pica and MAC Cosmetics was subtle yet strong. Brows were bold and groomed, lips were nude and skin was matte and flawless for the perfect match to the bright vibrant colours of the SS15 collection.
Hair: Anthony Turner for L'Oréal Professionnel created skinny, floating hair that looked young, fun and had plenty of movement as the models walked down the runway. L'Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Fresh Dust was used to achieve the airy texture. The finished look was straight, shiny and combined with a sharp middle parting.
Makeup: Giles Deacon wanted the girls to look 'weird and not pretty,' as though they had just woken up in the middle of the night and wiped their eyes with their knuckles - dishevelled, and distorted, definitely not mainstream. An army of weirdos of sorts!
MAC Pro Eyeshadows in Soot, Black Tied and a glittery black were applied into the corners of the eyes and blended out for an opaque effect.
Concealer was applied underneath the eye to ensure that eyes didn't look too tired. Brows were brushed up to give an ethereal effect, with the team citing a weird Sarah Moon as inspiration. Eyelashes were curled but no mascara was used. Concealer was daubed onto the lips to dial down any pinkness.
Hair: The team at Label.m created a Victorian-inspired hairstyle to act as a complete contrast to the collection which was bright and disco-esque. The look was very structured with an edge of grunge.
A rough centre parting was created and Label.m Sea Salt Spray spritzed onto the hair. Small sections from the front were taken and secured at the back. The rest of the hair was taken into a low ponytail, bringing it down over the ears and using just fingers to create the shape with a lived-in feel. They sought to make it look slept in or as though they'd been to the beach and still had salt in their hair. Label.m Dry shampoo was used in addition to Label.m Resurrection Style Dust if the hair was fine.
Nails: Inspiration was taken from the invitation, which sported an assortment of characters from The Jungle Book. It wasn't a moon manicure, rather a second colour was painted straight across each nail. The idea was for the look to appear plastic and very shiny. The colours comprised of nocturnal and deep sea nail polishes.
Makeup: Using products from the Tom Ford Beauty line, makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury mirrored the theme of the SS15 collection perfectly - expensive glamour with a rock 'n' roll edge. A strong Joan Jett influence was seen running throughout, courtesy of the blackest of winged-out glittering smokey eyes (using Tom Ford eyeshadows that were only available as lab samples!), nude lips, and pared-down complexions. This look was all about making a statement when it comes to your eye makeup and boy, did it succeed.
Hair: Created by hair stylist Sam McKnight, the line-up of models all provided the ideal uniform front to showcase the designer's collection of 10-inch heels, sheer fabrics, stockings and plunging necklines thanks to choppy 70s layers, tonnes of volume, bedhead texture and long sweeping side fringes. The look was full of attitude and confidence - these girls were definitely with the band and we have to ask, where can we sign up?
Nails: Nail designer Anatole Rainey offset the bad girl eye makeup with a touch of innocence by opting to pair it with a beautiful high-shine nude manicure. The most delicate of finishing touches, this look was one of the most exciting to write about yet - from tip to toe, backstage to FROW.
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