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Styling tricks that women with thin, fine or flat hair need to know

December 28th 2019 / Michael Van Clarke / 0 comment

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If you've got thin hair that always seems to go limp and floppy, make these easy fixes from hairstylist Michael Van Clarke your new habit

Many of us dream about thick, luscious hair, but did you know you could be sabotaging your hair volume, without even knowing it? From the styling products you use to the way you’ve had your hair cut and even there are many reasons why your hair could be looking thin. Here are the most common that I come across that have surprisingly easy fixes - from applying your styling products in the right place to combing your hair a certain way before you dry it.

Thick hair saboteur 1: your haircut

The first thick hair saboteur is your haircut. Getting the outline and shape of a haircut right will make a dramatic difference to how thick the hair looks. Stylists sometimes unwittingly make the hair appear flat by cutting the outline shape in an A-line, i.e. shorter at the back, longer at the front. This gives the hair a natural bias to fall forward and flat, combine this with a lack of layering and it's difficult to get lift or movement that stays.

Most hairdressers cut hair flat and wet because it’s quicker and simpler. Wet cutting eliminates your hair's nature’s variables and limits your hairstyle choices. You can end up with an identikit hairstyle which ignores your unique features or hair type. Today, almost all salons and hairstylists follow the wet-cut technique derived from the 1960s Bob revolution.

The fix: Getting the outline and shape of a haircut right will make a dramatic difference to how thick the hair looks. We use a technique called the Diamond Dry Cut, where hair is cut in its natural 3-dimensional state so you see the shape evolve and it can be tailored personalised to your unique features and hair type, so it falls back into place naturally, making it easier and quicker to style.

If your hair looks thin due to hair loss around the hairline, an A-line haircut may exaggerate this. Proper graduation and even a wide fringe may be a better solution.

Thick hair saboteur 2: overdrying and heat styling

The next cause of thin hair is your heat-styling routine, with overdrying being the main culprit. Once your hair is dry, applying further heat takes out the hair's own moisture, elasticity and life force. It will then feel thin, limp, and possibly flyaway and static too.

The fix: when it comes to styling, less is usually more. Use a good quality round brush that makes it easy to smooth hair and leave different degrees of movement or curl, or try finger curls with clips. Speak to your hairdresser about better techniques that are more precise and gentle when it comes to using heat on your hair. For me, it’s always about working with the natural feel of the hair to reshape or restyle without destroying its energy.

Thick hair saboteur 3: using the wrong styling products

Silicone-laden products and heavy oils and conditioners should be avoided by people with thinner hair as they weight it down. Think about where you're applying the products too, avoiding thick or oily products at the roots.

The fix: Thickening sprays should be applied at the roots where the hair is soft, whereas volumising mousses that smooth and thicken should be applied to mid-lengths and ends.

I have two favourite products for maximising volume and control: the Thickening Blowdry Spray and Volumising Mousse from my collection. The Thickening Spray formula with plant extracts and cashmere proteins gives grip and texture to floppy roots. The Volumising Mousse thickens fine hair and smoothes coarse hair. This moisturises the rougher mid-lengths and ends to promote flexibility. Together each balances out the different textures in the hair for maximum volume and smooth texture.

Thick hair saboteur 4: blasting your hair dry upside down

Drying your hair upside down may help give volume, but you still need your fingers to bring bend and volume. Take care not to blasting it upside down as this just makes the hair straight and possibly overdried. Your hair will collapse back pretty quickly.

The fix: apply products as above, then comb all the roots upwards at 45 degrees from the hairline to release any roots stuck to the scalp. Then diffuse gently lifting with fingers or comb tilting the head so gravity helps too. The idea is to get a gentle lift and bend at the root before any brush styling.

Find more from Michael Van Clarke at www.vanclarke.com

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