November 29th 2018
The Makeup Maniac
Searches for this high-impact eye makeup look have soared
November 23rd 2018 / 0 comment
Left: photo by James Basire. Right: Hourglass
It’s quick, easy and will fulfil all magpie sparkly eye desires. If you’re in need of a last minute party makeup look, here’s why ‘foiled eyes’ should be your first port of call
We’ve moved on from a long spell of backstage makeup minimalism to all out riots of colour on catwalks- from fuschia eyes to huge lashes, the beauty trends making big waves are fun, fearless and defiantly extra, with glitter in particular coming to the fore at SS19 shows. If chunky glitz or fairy dust isn’t quite your vibe, however, there’s one glinty incarnation of the glitter trend that’s more Goldfinger than Blue Peter: foil.
Not the kind you wrap your turkey in mind - no one wants an eyeful of Bacofoil. Rather, makeup artists are using liquid foil shadows to create dramatic, sensual eye looks that can be swiped on in a matter of seconds but look both high effort and high impact. You lot are clearly feeling the foil too - Pinterest searches for ‘foil finish’ eyeshadows have shot up by 169 per cent recently. There’s sometimes a bit of blending and technical know-how involved in creating a seamless liquid metallic eye, but once you’ve gotten to grips with mixing solutions, it’s a look you can’t foil (apologies). Here’s my edit of the best foil liners, shadows, palettes and kits to big up your lids for party season, whether you’ve got two minutes at your desk or an afternoon of Art Attack planned.
Rihanna wearing Fenty Foil Palette
The fast foils
After Love Island’s foiled lid heavy Ministry of Sound party this summer, Lottie London saw sales of these liquid eye foil shadows shoot up by over 70 per cent, proving that many of you like your glitter intense. The green-gold is my favourite, but there’s a mermaidy pink, blue and rose gold in the range if going green eyed doesn’t appeal. They can be used alone for an ever so slightly transparent foil look or layered over shadow for more opaque iridescence. They remind me of something I’d have stashed in my tiny 90s backpack for a school disco, which makes them just perfect to lighten the makeup mood for Christmas parties in my book.
New to the UK from LA, Morphe makeup is known for being both affordable and bold, and this foil shadow trio ticks both of those boxes. Light on lids and quick drying, the bronze, rust and gold liquid shadows can be used just at the lash line or blended all over the lid for painterly impact. Colour payoff is rich although the sparkle is more substantial than some others in this edit. They dry quickly, so get to work with a finger or brush sharpish once you apply them, but there are tidings of comfort and joy in that they don’t crease once in place.
Technically an all-over face palette but this metallic rainbow selection creates a frosted foil effect on eyes as well as cheekbones (I’d say that they actually probably work better on lids). As with everything Fenty, they glow on every skin tone and in the words of Rihanna the seven shades create “not too much drama but it’s still DRAMA.” Caps locks all Ri Ri’s work.
Formulated with crushed pearl to create a foil effect, this is the luxe way to do reflective eyes. With finely packed pigment, the cream to powder shadow can be dabbed on with a finger at the end of the day or blended out with a brush and even the most slapdash application garners gorgeous results. It lasts all night without crusting, flaking or creasing and it can be barely there or full-on foil depending on how heavily you layer it. It’s limited edition so add it to your kit quick.
If a subtle foil flick is more your cup of tea, this bargain route to blingy eyes will be just the thing. Makeup artist Francesca Neill recommends sweeping on a few coats to get a truly foiled result:
“For a more intense look in line with the ‘foil finish’ trend, try applying this over your lash line before working it into the inner corner. Following the eyeliner line will enhance your look and by adding two or three coats of the glitter you’ll intensify the pigment for a bolder ‘foil’ effect.”
Makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench layered Dazzleshadow in bronze toned Blinking Brilliant and pink champagne hued Flash and Dash backstage at the Halpern SS19 show to create an eye look that spoke for itself:
“It was a graphic statement that felt like an accessory.”
Consider swapping out your earrings for a foiled eye by treating yourself to a silky Dazzleshadow or go the whole hog and layer it with holographic pigment and clear lip gloss as Ffrench did at Halpern for foiled theatricality. Just FYI, it’ll be a sticky situation, so to seal the deal you may want to consider one of these kits instead…
The arty foils
Kryolan Pure Pigments Metallic, £17.50, with Kryolan Mixing Medium, £6.80
Suppliers to Hollywood and the film industry for over 77 years, Kryolan is the pro foil choice - simply blend the pigment of your choice (there are nine metallics) with the water based mixing solution to create a creamy foil and brush over lids. Once dry, it’ll stick fast, as hot movie lights would demand. Makeup artist Lans Nguyen Grealis created a pastel foil eye and hot pink for SS19’s Jiri Kalfar show if you need a little art class inspo.
Mix the liquid primer with one of 12 “heavy metal” foils and see these shadows come to life - you can create everything from solid gold to sheer silver. Go easy with the primer at first to avoid a foil flood.
Another DIY mixing option complete with pigment plus intensifying primer, there’s six earthy foils to choose from, and if you’re a fan of rose gold, you’ll be made up in every sense. You can also use the shadow alone for a less Tin Man finish on down days, but as soon as the cream to powder formula hits the priming liquid, it transforms into something deep, vivid and deliciously molten.