The Makeup Maniac

Is SPF makeup really worth it?

April 27th 2018 / Anna Hunter / 0 comment

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Everything from lipstick to mascara now boasts in-built sunscreen. We round up the best SPF makeup and ask whether it’s ever safe to solely rely on SPF in your foundation

My inbox is bulging with sunscreen press releases, I have over twenty emails gathered in a folder with the subject line ‘HEATWAVE’ (in caps), and while soaring spring temperatures appear to have cooled off, the new SPF innovations keep on rolling in, as they should- sun protection is a year round health essential, not a fleeting beauty trend or seasonal product to be filed away with the summery fake tan and foot scrapers.

Most of us have had the non-negotiable importance of wearing SPF in the sun drilled into us. I grew up in New Zealand, where sun hats with back flaps, rash vests at the beach and thick, coloured sunblock in the playground was de rigueur, but given that my job mainly involves me living a mole-like existence in a windowless office, with the odd scurry to Pret/ the bus stop, when it’s very often grey and rainy, can I get away with relying on SPF in my makeup?

In a recent Instagram post dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams bigged up the soul-cheering effect of sunshine while underlining the importance of protecting skin with an SPF product between 30 and 50, and in it she was wearing a foundation/ BB/ CC cream hybrid with broad spectrum protection of SPF 30. Given that we’re most often warned to slather ourselves in a dedicated SPF before even looking at a makeup brush, turning to foundation for protection seems controversial, but as Dr Stefanie clearly states, it’s all in the application and level of SPF offered - in principal, the fact that a product is layered ‘foundation’ shouldn’t matter:

“If it says eg SPF30 on the package, then that means SPF30, no matter how you happen to label the base formulation. Whether it's a sunscreen, a moisturiser or a foundation, an SPF30 is SPF 30 is SPF 30, as it has been tested.”

In short, if a product is labelled with SPF, it will undergo the same rigorous testing as any sunscreen out there, and the fact that it’s packaged and presented as makeup as opposed to beachy smelling sun lotion in a blue and yellow bottle is by the by. The caveat comes with the application, as Dr Stefanie highlights:

“If makeup has an SPF of at least 30 and you apply the same amount as you would a sunscreen, then this would be satisfactory protection.

“In order to maintain the stated SPF, however, any product needs to be applied every two hours and after sweating, so this would naturally also still be the case with your makeup.”

Obviously you would probably top up your foundation or tinted moisturiser when it becomes patchy at the end of the day anyway, but piling it on every two hours sounds like a recipe for cake face, particularly if you apply an ample amount in the first place as directed. So is SPF-charged base and the like totally pointless if it doesn’t tally with how we go about our business, or indeed how much makeup the average woman actually wears?

Makeup with SPF should be thought of as your second line of defence against UV rays, because two forms of sun protection are better than one

The NHS advises us to apply at least a teaspoon to the face and neck area at a time (add another teaspoon if you’re covering arms and shoulders too) before going out into sun, and the cost and inch-thick effect of replicating this with your full coverage foundation makes it a no go for the vast majority of us. A lighter textured high SPF CC cream could work, but the chances of you reapplying if you nip into the park at lunchtime are likely low. That said, wearing makeup with added SPF isn’t a futile exercise, as Dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk explains:

“Makeup with SPF should be thought of as your second line of defence against UV rays once you’ve already applied sunscreen because two forms of sun protection are better than one.

“After cleansing, apply a broad spectrum (UVA/ UVB) sun protection moisturiser with SPF 30 or higher to your face, ears, neck and chest. If you’re prone to breakouts, pick a non-comedogenic formulation that won’t clog your pores. Follow with an SPF-containing foundation or powder, depending on how much coverage you’re looking for. If you’re dashing in and out of the office during the day, especially between the hours of 11am and 3pm, remember to top up regularly.”

If you’ve meticulously applied your makeup first thing, the idea of smudging all of your hard work in the name of boosting your SPF might not fly in reality, which is where an SPF ‘topcoat’ could come in. SPF powders that can be layered over makeup to enhance sun protection are a good stopgap as long you apply them thoroughly, but again, it’s the rigorous layering that is often lacking according to Dr Kluk:

“The challenge with powders is applying enough to get adequate protection. They are certainly convenient for top-ups, particularly for those who don’t like to wear heavy makeup, or don’t want to layer sunscreen over makeup, plus they may also help to soak up sweat that can cause your SPF to wear off, but they shouldn’t be relied upon on their own.”

Kluk stresses the importance of sticking to reputable brands that have been subject to thorough scientific testing and to view SPF in makeup as a welcome booster, not your ‘safety’ base layer. Where makeup can particularly come in handy is in the form of SPF balms and lipsticks, as we often neglect to protect our lips in the sun, but otherwise don’t fuss too much about the name of product, be it a sun lotion, a moisturiser, a tint, a BB or a foundation- as long as you’re applying (and reapplying) your generous teaspoon, and it’s somewhere hovering in the SPF 30-50 range, you’re good. Here’s the SPF makeup that’s impressed us for sheer performance alone (the SPF addition is a bonus).

The SPF foundations

Diorskin Forever Foundation SPF 35, £35

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The fullest coverage of the lot, this smoothing foundation doesn’t feel heavy in the slightest and evens out skintone beautifully- it strikes the perfect balance of matte and dewy to cater for my t-zone shine yet occasionally dry cheeks, disguising breakouts but still looking convincingly skin-like, which is ultimately the aim of base. The SPF 35 is impressively high for a foundation- many throw in a token SPF 15 and leave it at that.

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MAC Studio Waterweight Foundation SPF 30 £27.50

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One of Ayesha’s go-to foundations, this offers sheer to medium yet buildable coverage in a wide array of skintones, with another ‘luminous matte’ kind of finish going on and a decent dose of SPF. If you’re after a summer base that adapts to different skin types (MAC Executive Director of Make-up Artistry Terry Barber reckons it works whether you’re skin is oily, dry, dehydrated or somewhere in between), Waterweight is a safe bet.

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Nars Velvet Skin Tint SPF 30, £30

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This one of my favourite holiday skin-fixers- it’s creamy in texture and speedy to apply yet comes off relatively matte and lasts well. It doesn’t look claggy or cakey when you reapply either. Lovely stuff.

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Bareminerals Complexion Rescue Tinted Hydrating Gel, £28

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If you’re after a more radiant daily base, with broad spectrum physical sunscreen benefits, sheer to medium coverage and a big hit of hydration thanks to the likes of squalene, Complexion Rescue could indeed come to your cosmetic aid. For the moisture that it delivers, the lightweight gel texture is a marvel too.

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The SPF bronzer

it Cosmetics CC+ bronzer SPF 50, £30

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Add a wash of bronze to cheeks the safe way- this SPF 50 cream bronzer can be blended into cheeks and across temples strategically, or mixed with a moisturiser or foundation for a glow injection. Just remember that this involves dilution- you’ll still need your ‘belt and braces’ SPF 30-50 underlayer to guarantee sufficient protection. Captain sensible over here.

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The SPF blusher

Perricone MD No Blush Blush, £29

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A sheer, rosy liquid blusher that looks genuine rather than clowny, this believable blusher works on a wide range of skin types and tones, with the added benefit of SPF, but clearly you’re not smearing this all over your mug, so cover up all the same. Once on, this is going nowhere.

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The SPF powders

If you like a loose option you can buff on with a brush, Dr Kluk rates Colorescience Sunforgettable Brush On Sunscreen SPF 30, £38, and compact wise her pick is Heliocare Oil Free Compact SPF 50, £22.50. On first glance the shade options look a bit like a tricky fit for my pallid hue, but you can always adopt one as a matte bronzer if you’re on the fair side.

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The SPF lip glosses

Paula’s Choice Resist Anti-Ageing Lip Gloss SPF 40, £18.70

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With a sky high SPF rating and coconut oil for sheen and moisture, this plumping, tinted gloss is a no-brainer come rain or shine.

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Lanolips Tinted Balm SPF 30, £7.99

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More shiny than balmy, whether you go for rose, red or indeed rhubarb, this rich lip conditioner packs a punch and has higher SPF protection than most lip balm options on the market.

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The SPF lipstick

YSL Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick SPF 15, £28

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This luxe lip colour is a relatively rare example of a proper, pigmented lipstick with a double figure dose of SPF. Reapplying is hardly a hassle, the satin finish is a crowd pleaser and the rainbow of colours on offer is a feast for eyes and lips.

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The SPF mist

Pixi Sun Mist, £18

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Not makeup per se, but an SPF 30 spritz to help to shield your visage from UV rays in your lunch break. It will also give you a cooling burst of hydration if mid-afternoon screen face has set it, and it’s a pure pleasure to apply often and liberally, which can only be a good thing where sun protection is concerned.

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The SPF mascara

Eyeko Beach Mascara, £19

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Yes, really. Eyeko’s new Beach mascara launches on Tuesday 1st May, and alongside sunscreen (unspecified SPF), the waterproof formula contains coconut oil to condition eyelashes. The wand is ‘wave’ shaped to coax lashes upwards and outwards with ease. We’ve told taken our lashes to the beach yet, but watch this space…

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