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Beauty inspiration: the top trends for SS15
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Eyes that sparkle
As seen at: House of Holland, Ashish and Anna Sui.
“A 1970s groupie trying to emulate her rock icons,” was the inspiration behind the look that makeup artist Lucia Pica created at House Of Holland. Fun, illuminating and eye-opening in more ways that one, it’s the grown up way to wear glitter and give eyes an on-trend wake-up-call to rouse them from their winter slumbers.
Image: Instagram.com/house_of_holland .
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As seen at: Emanuel Ungaro, Holly Fulton and Marques Almeida.
Described as “Field style, rather than street style,” by MAC Director of Makeup Artistry Terry Barber, this trend is all about chalky, sun-bleached pastels that look amazing against tanned or freckled festival skin. Lucia Pieroni was “inspired by Jerry Hall,” for the look she created at Emanuel Ungaro, where a wash of blue gave eyes a real, rather than retro feel.
Key products: MAC Pro Hi -Def Cyan and Pure White Pigments , £17 were pre-mixed 50/50 to give the classic smokey eye a quirky but totally wearable update.
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Strobing vs contouring
As seen at: Issey Miyake, Prabal Gurung and Marni.
Contouring looks set to take a back seat this season in favour or a lighter alternative. Called “strobing,” the new highlight is all about a more modern, uplifting look to enhance a summer glow and give skin a beautiful ethereal radiance. Makeup artist Alex Box described the look she created at Issey Miyake as, “A beautiful blue. Cold makeup where it’s all about the lashes and the coldness of the skin...it’s hopeful and fresh.”
Key product: MAC Strobe Cream , £24.50 was applied all over the centre of the face to add an iridescence over the forehead, bridge of the nose, cheekbones and chin and create an overall luminosity to skin.
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As seen at: Elie Saab, Dior and Just Cavalli.
Whether blue at Elie Saab, pastel at Dior or under-liner at Just Cavalli, traditional eyeliner was given a new season twist thanks to an abundance of new shapes and colours to experiment with. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux described the look at Elie Saab as, “Submarine, aqua, happiness,” to make it the perfect pick-me-up for rejuvenating tired peepers in need of a new outlook.
Image: Instagram.com/maccosmetics .
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Peaches, corals and melons
As seen at: Emilia Wickstead, Salvatore Ferragamo and Haider Ackerman.
This season’s fruity colours are certain to provide a warmth to your makeup bag long before the summer comes. Eyes were given a 5-a-day boost at Emilia Wickstead thanks to touches of subtle juicy colour. Makeup artist Emma O’Bryne described the look as, “The skin is delicate and translucent with touches of grapefruit and coral. It is incredibly feminine however there are hints of masculinity in the collection, which I have embodied by creating a boyish brow.”
Key product: Sisley Phyto-Lip Twist in Coral , £29 was used to give eyes a chic pop of colour.
Image: Jason Lloyd-Evans.
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As seen at: Thakoon, Temperley and Alexander Wang
Matte is out and sporty is in when it comes to skin, thanks to the fresh-faced illumination radiating from the SS15 runways. “The inspiration for the collection is the artist, Paul Gauguin,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal. “Thakoon wanted the girls to appear as if they were coming out of water, so the beauty look is all about the gloss on the eyelid and brushed up into the brow. Less is more.”
Key product: NARS Triple X Lip Gloss , £19 was applied to eyelids backstage.
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Making doll eyes
As seen at: DSquared2, Emilio Pucci and Sibling.
Feign innocence when you’re feeling you’re guiltiest with a little help from this full fluttered trend. “Geek girls dressing ‘glam’” was the way that makeup artist Gordon Espinet described the look at DSquared2. Bold, black and slightly clumped together for an almost 60s mod feel, when it comes to eyelashes this season, it seems the bigger the better.
Key product: Lashings of MAC Black In Extreme Dimension 3D Lash mascara , £19.
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As seen at: Burberry Prorsum, Zac Posen and Sibling.
Whether matte at Burberry, 80s at Sibling or defined at Zac Posen, the classic red lip rarely goes out of fashion. Backstage at Burberry, Makeup Artistic Consultant Wendy Rowe opted for a slightly matte deep ruby lip accentuated by using foundation first. The look acted as the perfect accessory to the bright, vibrant colours of ‘The Birds and the Bees’ SS15 collection.
Key product: Burberry Lip Cover in Ruby No.18 , £22.50.
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As seen at: Matthew Williamson, Derek Lam and Vera Wang.
Purple is the new black next season in a big way, with bold, colourful eyes being one of the most exciting of all the trends seen on the catwalks. Backstage at Matthew Williamson, makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury and Benefit Head Makeup & Trend Artist Lisa Potter-Dixon took inspiration from hibiscus flowers and the floral prints of the SS15 collection. Eyes were given a dewy lilac finish for a fresh take on 70s glamour that we can’t wait to recreate.
Key products: A clever mixture of berry Benefit Hydra-Smooth Lip Colour in Fling Thing and the fuchsia Dare Me , £15 was patted onto eyelids. The pearly lavender Creaseless Cream Eye Shadow in Always A Bridesmaid , £15.50 was then applied to the inner corner of the eye and into the centre of the lid, extending on to the lower lash line to finish.
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As seen at: Dolce&Gabbana, No21 and Antonio Berardi.
The secret to giving a pout extra power? Layering for a deeper colour or a range of different lipsticks, textures and even glosses to create a multi-dimensional effect. Soft, plump lips that looked as if they had been coloured by the juice of fresh berries was the focus of the look backstage at Dolce&Gabbana to complement a collection inspired by the Spanish influences in Sicily between 1516 and 1713.
Key products: Dolce&Gabbana Classic Cream Lipstick in shades of Ultra and Amethyst , £25.50 were applied on the outer parts of the lips and Dolce Matte Lipstick in Dolce Desire (available from the 5th of March) to finish on the cupid’s bow and at the centre of the lips to achieve a rich plump effect.
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The sandy smokey eye
As seen at: Roberto Cavalli, Giorgio Armani and Carolina Herrera.
Warm, sultry and relaxed, rich charcoal bronzes and brown eyeshadows make for the perfect daytime alternative for a more intense smokey eye. Speaking about the look that she created at Roberto Cavalli, Max Factor Global Creative Design Director Pat McGrath said, “Cavalli wanted the girls to look sexy and sultry but in a really relaxed way. So, we mixed bronze, silver and deep charcoal shimmers to create a natural and easy-going smokey eye. The real beauty of this look is that it has a glowing appeal that all women love – it’s just so wearable day or night.”
Key products: Max Factor Masterpiece Colour Precision Eye Shadow in Coffee , £6.99 was taken across the whole eyelid, Excess Shimmer metallic eye shadows in Onyx and Bronze , £7.99 applied to the crease and up to the outer corners and Excess Shimmer Eye Shadow in Crystal , £7.99 to brow bones, inner corners of the eye and along the upper lashes for contrast.
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The rock chick who’s made up with the band
As seen at: Tom Ford, House of Holland and Antipodium.
Full of attitude and defiance, this look was all about mixing a touch of sophistication with a heavy dose of ‘with the band’ recklessness. Reminiscent of Chrissie Hynde, one of our favourite incarnations was the deep, rich and blacker than black smokey eye at Tom Ford created by makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury which reflected the designer’s 70s rock and roll glamour vision for his collection perfectly.
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As seen at: Mary Katrantzou, Marni and Creatures of the Wind.
“Boyishly clean with sheer highlights,” was the way that makeup artist Val Garland described the look at Mary Katrantzou. The perfect partner to go with the attitude of next season’s 70s hairstyles, it was all about paring down makeup and toughening it up a little to make it the ideal trend to jump on board with if you prefer your makeup minimal.
Key product: MAC Studio Finish SPF35 Concealer , £15.50 was applied where needed to even skin tone and enhance rather than mask.
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Double texture hair
As seen at: Topshop Unique, Temperley and Julien Macdonald.
Perfect if you have an experimental streak, a mixture of wet and dry, slick and smooth textures added an exciting touch of creativity to models’ hair. The key lay in not making it look too girly. Backstage at Topshop Unique, Anthony Turner said, “I called this look ‘moody teenage girl who has gone to off to Blackpool for a weekend.’ This is quintessentially a Topshop girl.”
Key product: Achieve the models’ unkempt texture with L’Oréal Professionnel TecniART Wild Stylers Beach Waves , £14.99.
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Woodstock festival hair
As seen at: Marchesa, Peter Pilotto and Osman.
Carefree and tousled, locks were given a blast from festivals past at more Fashion Week shows than we could shake a glow stick at. Describing the look he created at Marchesa, Mark Hampton, Toni&Guy Global Hair Ambassador said, “The hair look is loose and voluminous waves, it’s feminine and understated.”
Key product: To give curls extra bounce, the team applied Toni&Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe Glamour 3D Volumiser , £7.49 pre-blowdry.
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As seen at: Jill Stuart, Matthew Williamson and Tom Ford.
From boho waves to Studio 54 volume and choppy layers, the 70s were in full swing when it came to hairstyles on the runways. Backstage at Jill Stuart, lead stylist James Pecis created a modern take on sexy and luxe Jerry Hall-like waves - it was all about unleashing your inner animal.
Key product: Moroccanoil Volumising Mousse , £18.85 which was applied to roots to give the final look smooth, controlled volume.
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As seen at: Victoria Beckham, J.JS Lee and Marios Schwab.
Less was definitely more at many of the Fashion Week shows, with effortless (even virginal) hair chosen over more elaborate hairstyles at some. “Victoria’s style is so modern and beautiful that I didn’t want to bring too much attention to the hair, and this natural look felt the most modern for this collection,” said Redken Global Styling Director Guido. “There was a time when a blowout would have been considered a luxury, and it is very luxurious, but that kind of look on the runway can seem dated. The style at Victoria Beckham is very easy and undone, which created a more modern feeling.”
Key product: Redken Wind Blown 05, £15.80 ( find your nearest salon here ) was applied through models’ hair to provide a dose of added texture and light body.
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A bevy of hairbands
As seen at: Barbara Casasola, Bora Aksu and Whistles.
Ponytails were given a makeover for the runways thanks to an abundance of different sized hairbands to secure them in place. Hair stylist Adam Reed opted for a “re-luxe” - or “relaxed luxury” texture for hair and swept it back to give the effect that models had just emerged from a sun-dappled pool. Hairbands came in many shapes and sizes - with classic knicker elastic used at Barbara Casasola and pantyhose being the inspiration at J.JS Lee.
Key product: The lived-in, semi-wet texture was achieved using L’Oréal Professionnel TecniART Metallic Gloss , £13.49.
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The glossy tan
As seen at: Julien Macdonald, Sophia Webster and Amanda Wakeley.
From the “mermaid gleam” at Julien Macdonald to the “just-emerged-from-the-club” glow at Sophia Webster, this season’s must-have tan is all about a wet-look, shimmering finish to skin that looks glossy and classy in equal measure. “Think shimmer, gloss and iridescence,” said St Tropez Global Tanning & Skin Finishing Expert Nichola Joss backstage at Julien Macdonald. “This is gorgeous, healthy skin that comes with a watery sheen to give our girls an otherworldly beauty.”
Key product: Achieve models’ gorgeous aqua-inspired glow by using St. Tropez Luxe Dry Oil , £25.
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Two tone pastel nail art
As seen at: Kenzo, Desigual and Manish Arora.
From makeup to nails, festival chic is set to become the trend of the summer. Channel the look from head to toe by taking inspiration from Kenzo where pastel shades were teamed with a flash of silver for a look that was graphic, futuristic and beautifully bespoke.
Key products: Create the perfect base using the baby pink MAC Studio Nail Lacquer in Delicate , £10 and follow nail artist Naomi Yasuda’s cue and complete the look with silver origami paper.
Image: Instagram.com/maccosmetics .
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The expensive manicure
As seen at: Blumarine, Alberta Ferretti and Preen.
Sophisticated, chic but not cheap, beautifully manicured nails that look healthy, shiny and strong will prove to be the best way to showcase a tan this year. “An expensive manicure, sheer perfection,” was how nail technician Keri Blair described the look at Blumarine, and we couldn’t agree more.
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Cosmic nail polish
As seen at: DAKS, PPQ and Ashish.
Intergalactic was the in-demand nail design of the season with nails given a cosmic makeover that saw glitter, two tone and shades of space come to the forefront. At DAKS, nail technician Keri Blair described the silvery lilac toned look as, “Liquid metal. Exploration of the cosmos...futuristic yet elegant and expensive!”
Key products: Mix a silvery polish with the glittery pink MAC Girl Trouble and finish with a high gloss top coat to nail the trend.