The classic eyeliner flick can prove a bit tricky if your eyelids are naturally hooded. Chanel makeup artist Zoë Taylor shows how a bit of prep and application know-how means you can master the look
Creating the perfect flicked eyeliner look can be hard enough when you have really open and spacious eyelids, so applying eyeliner for hooded lids comes with a whole other set of issues to navigate.
That’s why we called upon Chanel makeup artist, who has also beautified the likes of celebs such as Keira Knightley and Rihanna to show us exactly how to do a liquid eyeliner for hooded lids look. Zoe, who has slightly hooded lids herself, demonstrates how technique and promises that with just a bit of practice, you can do it too. Zoe has also shown us how to lift your face with blusher, which is utter genius as well as the perfect glitter eye makeup look.
“When you have hooded eyelids, the focus of the eyeliner should be to create the illusion of elongating your eyes rather than lifting them.” And her top tip on products that will help create the look? “Use the finest and smallest brush you can find. It will give you maximum control and that will help as you work out the best shape of eyeliner flick for your eye shape.”
How to do Zoë’s eyeliner for hooded lids look
Step 1: Mark it out
“Start by dotting where you want your flick to end with a brown kohl pencil. Using a brown pencil is a lot softer than black and tends to bring out the colour of the eyes much more so you can always just stick with the brown. However, to make the look more impactful, which is often what you need with hooded lids, use the brown to work out your shape and then go over it with a black gel eyeliner.”
Looking straight ahead draw a chunky triangular flick that goes out more than it goes up. That is Zoë’s top-tip for creating the eyeliner shape that works best with hooded lids. Take the brown pencil along the bottom waterline too to help connect the top to the bottom and blend with a brush to soften.
Zoë likes: Maybelline Tattoo Liner Quick Dry Gel Pencil in Smooth Walnut, £3.99
Step 2: Over the top
Next, apply black gel eyeliner over the top. This intensifies the look and has better staying power and Taylor favours a gel over a traditional liquid liner because gels are less fluid. "Liquid liners can spread slightly as you apply them and make eyes look more crepey, which is not what you want." Once you've gone over your original shape apply the gel liner in the waterline along the bottom lashes too and you might want to take it right into the inner corner. "This will also help elongate the eye and create the illusion that your eye has a bit more of a lid than it does,” says Taylor.
Zoë likes: Chanel Calligraphie De Chanel in Hyperblack, £30
Step 3: Tidy it up
Keep a cotton bud soaked in makeup remover to sharpen up the lines. Even professional makeup artists need to correct what they’ve done so don’t expect to get it right on your first try. Finish by applying lots of mascara and you may want to go back in with your gel liner in the inner corners to make sure it looks as sharp as possible.