Designed to enhance rather than alter, the AW14 runways served as a masterclass in the art of beautifully natural makeup thanks to some clever tips and tricks.
“It’s pushing home the idea that a woman’s face is beautiful in its natural state,” says makeup artist Terry Barber. “It all makes the girl look more groomed and fresh but is invisible makeup,” adds Val Garland.
Much more technical than it seems, this trend is deceptively difficult to master. “The first thing is to appreciate that there are hundreds of tones present in the skin. You have to choose and mix concealer very carefully to accommodate this,” says makeup artist Aaron de Mey. “I apply imperceptibly deeper tones of concealer to raised spots to recede them, for example. And fine brushes are essential.”
“Using large brushes or fingertips to apply concealer is a disaster. It will always look heavy. I like to use a very dense formula with a fine brush, working it very minimally into a moisturized base.”
Here are 5 of our favourite Fashion Week shows and the makeup tips behind them from the artists who created them.
Parisian chic at Jacquemus
Sophistication met Parisian elegance at Jacquemus. The look was chic, timeless and given an urban edge.
The Inspiration: “Classic French minimal chic,” said lead makeup artist Terry Barber.
Backstage Makeup Tips
Face: MAC Face and Body Foundation , £28.50 was the base of choice to create a porcelain yet transparent effect to skin. Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer , £15.50 was then blended under the eyes up to the lower socket only so that that the finished look appeared more real and natural. To keep the face shine-free, Studio Sculpt Powder , £22 was dusted in between brows, under the eyes and down the nose.
Dusty Mauve Lipstick from the MAC Fall 14 Trend Forecast/Lip palette , £35 was then buffed over the high points of the cheeks with fingers.
Eye Makeup: Groomed and polished eyebrows are essential for this look to give it an element of sophistication and so they were filled in and brushed up and outwards using MAC Clear Brow Set , £13.50. Essential oils were then applied to the eyelid and under the eyes for a feminine sheen.
Lips: Our favourite part of the look, lips were given a slick of Dusty Mauve Lipstick which was pressed into the lips for a cool-toned alternative to your favourite nude lippie. They were then dusted with Studio Sculpt Powder to finish.
MORE GLOSS: 6 French beauty buys every girl should try
Matte and minimal at Marc Jacobs
Showcased to perfection by model of the moment Kendall Jenner, the look was simple, stylish and most importantly, shine-free.
The Inspiration: "The makeup look was really inspired by the collection, which is very ‘matte,’" said legendary makeup artist François Nars backstage. “There's nothing too silky and I wanted that to translate to the makeup. The models look like mannequins.”
Backstage Makeup Tips
Face: “We used a lot of powder for a matte, porcelain finish," said Nars regarding his vision for the models’ barely there made up visages. A dusting of NARS Loose Powder , £26.50 was used to tie the look together with NARS Blush , £22.50 applied in soft peaches, neutrals and pink browns.
Eye Makeup: “The eyelid is a pale neutral grey and we made it look bigger by foregoing mascara,” said Nars. His neutral eyeshadow palette of choice consisted of the alabaster Andromeda Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow , £21, the sheer white shimmer side of the Pandora Duo Eyeshadow , £25, the sugared cocoa side of the Kalahari Duo Eyeshadow , £25 and the matte brown Sophia Single Eyeshadow , £18.
Lips: “The lips have a touch of frosted metallic silver,” said Nars. This was achieved by using a mixture of the nude Striptease Lip Gloss , £18.50 and metallic champagne Dione Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow , £21.
MORE GLOSS: Our Makeup Maniac finds out about life on Nars with the man himself
Clean, fresh and athletic at Joseph
The neutral eyes, brown eyelids and dewy sheen complexions spotted at Joseph were all the excuse we needed to pare back our makeup looks this winter.
The Inspiration: Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury said, “It’s a natural Lauren Hutton look meets Brooke Shields’ brows!”
“One of the things I love most about this Joseph collection is the clean lines and androgynous edges. I wanted to create a beauty look which complemented this whilst still feeling feminine. The focus is very much on highlighting natural features – the beautiful brown colour of lids is emphasised with a glowing sheen, the cheeks are sculpted and contoured and the brows are full and handsome.”
Backstage Makeup Tips:
Face: “Prep the skin with the dream team blend of Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream , £70 and Wonderglow , £38.50 for a luminous complexion. Follow with Light Wonder foundation , £32 for a natural-looking base and conceal any imperfections or redness with the Retoucher , £25 for super coverage without clogging,” recommends Charlotte.
“Using my Powder & Sculpt brush , £35 apply the bronzer in Filmstar Bronze & Glow , £49 in the hollow of the cheeks. Mix my Magic Cream with Bar of Gold , £30 and pat on the cheekbones for a gorgeous subtle metallic sheen.”
Eye Makeup: “Brush up and fill the brows with my Brow Lift , £22.50 three way shape, lift and shade tool. You want to achieve a full, groomed brow like a young Brooke Shields so keep them as natural-looking as possible,” advises Charlotte.
“Mix my stunning Bardot Beige Lip Lustre , £16.50 with Amber Haze Colour Chameleon , £19 and sweep all over the lids, into the outer corner of the eyes. Finish with a slick of lip balm on the lips, blotted for ultimate fresh-faced beauty.”
MORE GLOSS: How to create Charlotte Tilbury’s Golden Goddess look
Bold, sharp and effortless at Narciso Rodriguez
Flawless skin, nude lips and understated hints of colour created a light yet strong look at Narciso Rodriguez.
The Inspiration: “It’s about modernity, transparency and light,” said Dick Page, Shiseido Artistic Director.
Backstage Makeup Tips
Face: For moisturised, pure-looking skin, Shiseido Sheer and Perfect Foundation , £29 was the cover-up used.
Eye Makeup: Subtle touches of green-gold or pink were added to eyelids thanks to the pastel-hued Luminizing Satin Eye Colour in Static, £35.50, paired with strong, natural eyebrows.
Lips: “Super real” lips were achieved using the deep neutral brown Shiseido Lacquer Rouge in Viola , £23.50 with a slight highlight on the cupid’s bow created using the same eyeshadow palette that was used for the eyes.
MORE GLOSS: How to get bold and beautiful eyebrows
Reliving the 70s at Etro
Bold, natural brows teams with warm undertones and soft lips - this season’s Etro girl brought to mind that friend who says she never uses makeup but always looks immaculately well turned out. We’re onto you...
The Inspiration: “That 70s girl, with a wink towards young Brooke Shields - warm, rustic tones to shape the face,” said makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo.
Backstage Makeup Tips
Face: MAC Face and Body Foundation , £28.50 was used to even skin tone with Mineralize Skinfinish Natural , £23.50 applied on top for a matte finish.
MAC Pro Taupe Powder Blush , £15 and Sculpt Sculpting Powder Pro Palette , £16.50 were then blended together under the cheekbones to contour and sculpt and for warmth, the pearlescent peach Sunbasque Sheertone Blush , £18 and peach MAC Pro Warm Light Shaping Powder Pro Palette , £16.50 were applied over cheekbones.
Eye Makeup: The full and fabulous Brooke Shield eyebrows were given extra emphasis thanks to Omega and Charcoal Brown Eyeshadows , £13 and set with MAC Clear Brow Set , £13.50. Dark Brew Eyeshadow from the Warm Neutral Palette x15 , £65 was then applied through the outer corner of the eyes and smudged out.
Lips: For a soft and natural look, the cinnamon MAC Nice ‘n’ Spicy or creamy beige Etcetera Pro Longwear Lip Pencils , £15 were used.