Avoid clumpy mascara, patchy base and end-of-day shine with pro makeup artist, Hannah Martin’s, top day to night tips
This month, there’s a good chance that your evenings are filled with plenty of mulled wine and festive cheer. There’s also probably a good chance that work’s busier than ever and as a result, come 6 pm, you’re suffering (like me) from a case of what I like to call, ‘screen face’ - my T-zone’s shinier than ever, my eyeliner’s faded and my base has slipped halfway down my face.
Cue a dash to the Ladies’ at 6.05 pm with my makeup bag in tow. Pre-night out top-ups come with some common pitfalls though. For mascara , it’s usually spider-like eyelashes, for foundation , it’s often cakiness however, as pro makeup artist Hannah Martin tells me, a few quick tweaks can make all the difference.
We caught up with Hannah to talk speedy post-work hacks for taking your makeup from short to long-wear.
What are the post-work makeup shortcuts that you swear by?
“For minimal effort, maximum impact, simply reset your makeup with a little powder like Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Finishing Powder , £29, and pop on a bold red lip and hey presto - instant glam!
If a red lip isn’t your go-to evening look though, then I love nothing more than taking a dark shadow like Bobbi Brown Saddle or Mahogany (£19.50 each), and sweeping it through the crease of the eye and along your lower lash line to make your day eye a little smokey.
Then press a sparkle shadow like Hourglass Scattered Light Glitter Eyeshadow in Smoke , £26, all over the movable part of the lid. Add a coat or two of mascara and a slick of lip gloss and you’re good to go.”
What are your top tricks for tackling end-of-day shine?
“If your T-zone is prone to a little shine, then you need to carry NYX Blotting Papers , £5.50, with you. Simply place onto the oily area and the paper will absorb the oil without making your makeup patchy or cakey. Then re-powder - Hourglass Veil Translucent Powder , £16, is incredible but I also love Rimmel Stay Matte Powder , £3.99, for a flawless finish. You can use a brush or a powder pad, but be sure to blot your skin first as too much oil transfer onto the brush or pad can cause the makeup to look patchy.”
What’s the best way to top up your base without making it look cakey?
“If you want to top up your base, it’s a good idea to give your face a quick rehydrating spritz with a setting spray - Cover FX Dewy Finish Setting Spray , £20.50, is ideal.
“Then, take a concealer like Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer , £23, or Collection Lasting Perfection Concealer , £3.99, and apply it under the eyes, nose, cheeks and anywhere else you want to perfect, and blend with either your fingers or a buffing brush. Using concealer will ensure your base doesn’t look too heavy or cakey ahead of your evening out.”
How can you switch up your eye makeup without having to take everything off?
“It’s easier than you think to switch up your eye makeup and rarely any need to take it all off and start again. If you know you have evening plans, try and keep your day eye makeup simple so you can easily layer on top. If this is ever the case for me, I love a simple long-wear cream shadow for the day like Trish McEvoy 24hr Eyeshadow and Liner in Smokey Quartz , £24, with a little liner that I know I can add to easily later on.
“Something like Charlotte Tilbury Dolce Vita Palette , £39, will layer perfectly on top and take your simple greyish plum eye to a fabulous rusty sparkle really easily - simply brush the powder shadow on top and press the sparkle into your lid with your ring finger. For a super feline finish, apply a waterproof black liner like NYX Slide On Eye Pencil , £6.50, along your waterline for maximum impact.”
What would be your top tips for topping up your mascara without causing clumps?
“Mascara formulas are all very different, but if you know you’ll want to top up your mascara, you’ll need to find one that is quite soft like Bobbi Brown Smokey Eye Mascara , £25. It doesn’t go crunchy and is great for building up later in the day. If your formula is quite wet and dries very hard, then it will be really tricky to add to.”
And finally, how can you give your lipstick a few more crack-free hours of wear?
“There are many long-wear lipsticks available currently and I think most brands make liquid lipsticks too these days, but their formulas can be a little drying on the lip. If you don’t fancy that dry feeling, then look to use a lip pencil in the colour of your choice and fill in the entire lip with it before sweeping your lip colour on top. This way, if your lipstick wears off, your lips are stained underneath but without that tell-tale dryness or cracking of a long-wear liquid lipstick.”