He owns an island (Motu Tané in French Polynesia), has collaborated with everyone from Karl Lagerfeld to Madonna and is the founder and creative director of one of the most ‘audacious’ (his words), envelope-pushing beauty brands in the world. From The Multiple to the Laguna Bronzing Powder to the famed ‘ Orgasm’ collection (approximately 135 Orgasm products are sold every hour), chances are you have a cult François Nars favourite stashed away in your handbag, or at least you’ll know someone who does.
But just how did this talented makeup artist, photographer and self-proclaimed perfectionist from the south of France come to hit women’s cosmetic ‘G Spot’ ? What inspires his beauty innovations and their cheeky names? And just why does he love lipstick so much? I met up with a few other beauty sleuths to find out…
François Nars on starting out...
“I think that it was probably the world of fashion that inspired me the most to begin with. At the age of 7 or 8 years old I would flick through my mother’s fashion magazines - she passed on the disease and I became a fashion addict! It was later that I got into makeup, through the fashion magazines”.
On launching his own brand...
“In terms of starting the brand it was perfect timing for me, I was extremely exposed and doing lots of editorial for the likes of American Vogue. My name was really out there, so I felt that it was great timing - ‘now or never!’. I was also a bit frustrated because when I was working I couldn’t find a brand that had all of the products I needed, from A to Z. I thought that it would be great to have a brand that had products that all really worked, from foundations to lipsticks to blushers. Like any other makeup artist I used to pick from different brands, a lipstick here, a foundation there and so on. I felt that if I was going to make a brand, it had to feel complete. I had to be satisfied with absolutely everything. I didn’t really plan it that far in advance - I started thinking about it a year before it launched. It was very relaxed, very laid back... I just thought 'Let’s do it!'"
On what inspires him…
“Travelling plays a big part. I also love watching movies, reading books, going to museums and to exhibitions. Ideas can be triggered by something as simple as seeing something or someone as I walk down the street or by more intellectual pursuits. I think that my collections are very eclectic for this reason - sometimes I don’t know where the idea has originally come from!
“I do try to mix influences from the past with more modern ideas. It’s very rare that I completely forget the past, because so many fabulous things have been created through the decades, so I keep that in mind but I love discovering new music, new films and new actresses. I keep an eye on new artists and also explore new places and cities as often as I can. Visiting countries that I’ve never been to excites me, as does going to Japan. Japan always seems to help me come up with great new ideas! In short I like to mix the past, the present and the future to come up with something interesting”.
On his memorable, often racy shade names…
“Movies are a big influence, and travel always helps me to come up with ideas. As for the more risqué names, I never think too hard about it. Makeup is a very sexy thing, putting on makeup is a very sexy thing to do! It makes women look beautiful and it’s a way to face the world, looking great while you do so. Certain sexual names sprang to mind as they’re so part of life and part of our enjoyment of it. There’s nothing wrong with sex and there’s certainly nothing wrong with having an orgasm! The word ‘orgasm’ conveys pleasure and being alive to me, it’s not just a sexual term. Also, Nars is always a bit edgy, as a brand we like to shock and push buttons. I didn’t really predict that the Orgasm blush would be such a success, but women really embraced it. It’s probably become the most famous blush in the world!
“At the time of creating ‘Orgasm’ I was also working a lot with Calvin Klein in New York, and Calvin was basing his collections around sexuality and obsession. I thought, why not transfer that to makeup? Why not make makeup sexy?”
On the mood-altering powers of lipstick…
“It’s such an easy accessory. It just takes one tube to look and feel sexy and glamorous. It gives you an instant aura of sophistication. It makes you feel chic. It’s so easy to carry, and even during the war, when women would give up everything, they still bought lipstick. It’s a global fixation, and right away it brings life to the face. I love lipstick in general, red of course, but any colour goes!”
On his muses and unusual campaign models…
“Typical, cute beauty isn’t my thing. I like strong features, I love faces with character. I’m very attracted to women with strong personalities. The muses that I pick for my campaign could be actresses or models, but it’s very rare that you’ll see me go for a perfect “Barbie doll” look.
“The Nars girl is edgy, with a timeless beauty. She’s not just a girl of the moment. For my new campaign I worked with Charlotte Rampling - she’s a quintessential beauty in my eyes. I go for the girl that you never get tired of watching."
On street style…
“These days you don’t see so many “makeup mistakes”. I think that the rise of beauty blogs and advice online has meant that women today are much more informed about choosing and applying makeup. I think women should be free to be and do whatever they want, but you definitely see less streaky, mismatched foundation! I love colour, and sometimes I love seeing “mistakes”, as “mistakes” often become ideas."