Montano's Masterclass: Berries and cream

I don’t know about you but I so envy girls that can slick on a red lip with some tinted moisturiser and act as if they just applied some lip balm. However, maybe I need to learn something from those girls - the key to a modern red or plum lip as make-up maestro Kay Montano explains is to pare down the rest of the face, which means a lick of mascara or a rosy cheek and subtle, neutral shading. Start piling on a black smokey eye and contoured cheeks and you’re heading right back to the 1980s. Never underestimate the one power of playing up just one feature (here it’s lips) - remember, the golden rule for a modern face right now is minimalism.

Step 1: Milkmaid skin

“I think foundation has often been the hardest to get at great value,” says Kay. “However, there are a few foundations that are beginning to break the mould.” Kay applied a sheer, luminous foundation here with a sponge to give a flawless, poreless, pure effect, although she says, “I don’t believe there is a better way to apply foundation, you have to do whatever feels right for you.”

Kay used: Diego della Palma Lifting Effect Cream Foundation , £27.50, followed by Pur Minerals Disappearing Act 4-in-1 Concealer in Light,  £19.50 under the eyes.

Step 2: Outdoor flush

The key to recreating a healthy, glowing flush, explains Kay, is to apply it high up on the cheek. Don’t ever, she says, mistake blusher with contouring. “If you wanted to contour the cheeks, you wouldn’t use a pink blusher, but a shadow colour, and contouring would be under the cheekbone not high up.”

Kay used: Autograph Pure Colour Blusher in Berry,  £12.00, and Lola Finishing Brush , £17.

Step 3: Shimmering lids

When make-up artists talk about ‘keeping the rest of the face nude’ they often don’t mean not using any make-up at all - all the so called ‘nude’ looks on the catwalks are often layers of subtle neutrals. Here, as a pretty alternative to a nude, Kay has used an oyster pink shimmer on lids, which she says looks especially good on fair skin.

Kay used: Autograph Pure Colour Mono Eyeshadow in Pink Shimmer , £6.00.

Step 4: A lick of mascara

“To keep the look fresh, apply mascara to top lashes only,” says Kay. “To apply it to the bottom ones too will give you a more doll-like or made-up effect.” Comb through with an eyelash comb to keep lashes fine.

Kay used: Autograph Neverending Lashes Mascara in Black , £8.50 which Kay says is not clumpy at all.

Step 5: Berry Perfect lips

The key to perfecting a bold lip like this, says Kay, is to “Start in the centre of the lip and work outwards using a lip brush.” Kay is not in favour however of the small, fine lip brushes you get in most brush sets. “Get a wider, flat brush, otherwise the lip product pushes at the edges creating a raised line.”

Kay used: Lola Intense Colour Lipstick in Cashmere Berry  £12.

Credits

All make-up by Kay Montano using make-up available from M&S stores nationwide

Hair by Maarit at D and V Management

Styled and directed by Susannah Taylor

Model: Minnie Brady at Premier

Scarf from  Anthropologie 

Jumper from  Uniqlo