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Oils - they’re the Marmite of the skincare world. Some shun them and some embrace them, but there’s one issue that has led to particularly animated debate among experts - whether or not they’re good or bad for blemish-prone skin.
We asked four skincare experts - cosmetic dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams , facialist Abigail James , Megan Felton, co-founder of skincare consultancy Lion/ne and facialist Sarah Chapman - for their views on four of the most commonly asked questions. Read on to see what they agreed and disagreed on.
1. Are certain facial oils good for blemish-prone skin?
No: Dr Stefanie Williams
Dr Williams is firmly against their use. They’re actually the cause of many of the skin problems that she sees in her clinic. “We often get patients who have used facial oils at home that have triggered acne or rosacea breakouts,” she tells me. “For anybody with a tendency for breakouts, I strictly advise against using facial oils of any sort, as they clog up pores and congest the skin, aggravating flare-ups (even if the company swears that they don’t…).”
She adds, “This is also true for tea tree oil (which is often even marketing for acne – crazy!) which may have mild anti-inflammatory effects, but its pore-clogging properties in my professional experience, greatly outweigh its mild anti-inflammatory benefits.”
Yes: Abigail James
Not all oils are bad in her experience. “The skin needs some oil. If we keep over stripping the skin, it can become dry, tight, and sensitive,” she explains. “Some natural plant oils have inbuilt antibacterial, anti-inflammatory benefits and some are close to our own natural sebum.” These lighter oils are less likely to overload skin and trigger breakouts. Examples include jojoba, hemp, starflower, milk thistle, evening primrose, and grapeseed.
She recommends avoiding heavy ones such as coconut, olive, wheatgerm, and avocado, as well as mineral oils. “These are petrochemicals that feel lovely but leave a film on the surface of the skin and will only block pores,” she says.
Yes: Sarah Chapman
Like Abigail, Sarah differentiates between light and heavy types of oils. “Heavy oils such as sweet almond can clog the skin, so they are best avoided. Look for products containing oils such as melon oil, which is really lightweight and jojoba, which is the closest to your natural sebum.” Omega oils are also a valuable addition to your artillery in her experience for protecting cell membranes, keeping them supple and permeable. They’re also anti-inflammatory and can help with sensitivity too, she says.
Yes: Megan Felton
It’s a yes, but only for those who have very dry skin too. “Seed oils can be a great option to deeply hydrate the skin,” she says. “Their fatty acids and antioxidants can help the barrier function of our skin, which guards us against all of the irritants we come in contact with throughout the day.”
As for oils to avoid, she puts essential oils such as tea tree oil, rosemary oil and lemongrass oil on the ‘avoid’ list. “Although they do have beneficial properties - anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant - they also can irritate the skin and for blemish-prone skin, this is not what you need. Even when this irritation may not appear in the short-term on the surface, it can cause damage beneath the skin that will cause sensitisation as you age.”
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2. Can oils make oily skin less oily?
No: Dr Stefanie Williams
This is a myth in Dr Williams’ experience. “This doesn’t make any sense in my professional opinion as a dermatologist. It’s just not needed as the skin produces enough oil on its own. Why would you add more?” It could be doing more harm than good. “I see victims of the facial-oil-is-good-for-breakouts school of thought in clinic every single week, many of them with permanently scarred skin.”
Yes: Sarah Chapman
Certain oils can help balance oil production in Sarah’s experience because like attracts like. “Our skin produces its own natural oil - sebum - so any oil applied to the skin can be easily absorbed through the oil pathways in the skin,” she explains. “When combined with your natural oils, this helps to draw out impurities more efficiently, working in harmony with your skin.” Stripping the skin of its natural oils will only encourage the sebaceous glands to produce more oil to compensate, she says.
Yes: Abigail James
Abigail is also of the opinion that over-stripping the skin can result in the overproduction of sebum which can make breakouts worse. Using certain kinds of oils can help regulate that though. “If you apply the tiniest amount of a lightweight natural oil after your cleanse and serum in the evening, it can help the skin to rebalance,” she says. It has to be the right kind of oil though, she cautions - the lighter ones mentioned earlier or safflower or rosehip seed. “Steer clear of anything synthetically fragranced as it can be an irritant.” Avoid heavy ones. “I’ve seen from experience with clients that when they go totally oil-free to try and combat acne, it never has the desired effect, and they always end up having to add in some nourishment, no matter how small from an oil or balm.”
Her favourite oils are Dr Hauschka Clarifying Day Oil , £15.95, Trilogy Certified Organic Rosehip Oil , £13.07, and Votary Clarifying Facial Oil , £65.