Considering Roaccutane for your acne? Skin doctor Dr Terry Loong explains how isotretinoin works to get rid of adult acne, the pros and cons and whether it's right for you

Any products in this article have been selected editorially however if you buy something we mention, we may earn commission

Roaccutane; it gets a bad rap, but is its negative press deserved? Who can it help and how does it work? In a continuation of our feature on how to get clear skin , we tapped into integrative cosmetic and skin doctor  Dr Terry Loong’ s knowledge and experience with the renowned acne medication to find out about roaccutane's side effects, how it really works and whether it's right for your skin...

Get The Gloss: What is Roaccutane and how does the acne drug work?

Dr Terry: Roaccutane is a vitamin A derivative that is taken orally as a pill to treat  severe acne . The true mechanism of how it works is not fully known but in essence it does the following:

  • Dramatically reduces the size of the oil glands (by around 35-58%)
  • Reduces the amount of oil produced by the gland itself (by around 80%)
  • Reduces skin cells clogging up the pores
  • Reduces inflammation
  • Indirectly reduces P.Acne bacteria that causes acne opportunistically.

GTG: Who is Roaccutane most suitable for?

DT: Severe inflammatory acne that has not responded to traditional or alternative methods will fare best. That usually means very oily, inflamed skin.

GTG: How long is a course of treatment?

DT: A course of treatment is typically 3-5 months (one cycle) depending on the severity.

Research shows that Roaccutane can achieve partial or complete clearance of acne in about 95% of people who complete a cycle. The majority of people who take it see their acne effectively cured, experiencing long-term remission of acne symptoms.

Studies show an average relapse rate of around 33%, and in these cases sometimes a second course is given.

GTG: What are the pros of taking Roaccutane?

DT: It reduces oil production on the face, dramatically improving acne and for some achieving flawless skin.

GTG: On the flip side, what are the cons?

DT: Plenty! As it's a systemic medication (taken orally), it affects many systems of the body. Approximately 80% of people taking it will experience one or more of the below Roaccutane side effects:

  • Dry mouth
  • Dry, cracked lips
  • Dry skin
  • Nose bleeds
  • Hair loss or baldness
  • Skin rash or worsening eczema
  • Hair overgrowth in women (rare)
  • Sensitive skin
  • Increased risk of sunburn
  • Depression
  • Suicidal thoughts
  • Hearing impairment
  • Visual problems
  • Joint pain
  • Bowel inflammation
  • Birth defects
  • Muscle pain
  • Arthritis
  • Liver problems
  • Dry eyes

Unfortunately the list goes on...

GTG: How can you counteract any side effects?

DT: It’s best to weigh up the pros and cons carefully before starting on it. Increase your supplement intake to reduce inflammation in your body, eat organic produce where possible, increase your antioxidant uptake and reduce any toxic chemical burden where you can to help to minimise the impact of side effects.

MORE GLOSS: The cosmetic dermatologist's guide to dealing with acne

GTG: Should you also change the skincare products you're using?

DT: Yes, your skin will be drier so it's best to hydrate! Moisturise your skin and don't use products that have too strong active ingredients. You’ll want to avoid skin treatments that would be reactive or strip the skin, for example steer clear of skin peels or lasers that may be too harsh for the skin. Sunscreen is a must, even on cloudy days!

For more information, check out our dermatologist approved list of  the best skincare to use while on roaccutane, and ingredients and products to avoid .

GTG: Is it worse to take it in winter?

DT: It could be as the weather will be dry so you should increase your moisture levels. However, during winter there’s less sunshine, so from this perspective it may be beneficial to start a course during the winter months.

GTG: Do you have any Roaccutane success stories? Or on the contrary, horror stories?

DT: I prefer not to use Roaccutane. My patients normally come to me after Roaccutane failed them or in cases where acne has resurfaced and they don't want to go through the side effects again. I had a patient who had such dry eyes after roaccutane that she couldn't wear any contact lenses for 3 years. It’s whatever works for individual patients.

Do you have any experience with Roaccutane, either positive or negative? Let us know below.

Need more information? Check out our edit of  the best skin products for acne-prone skin  or read  Dr Sam Bunting's advice on this roaccutane alternative

Find out more about Dr Terry or book an appointment  here