In the third of our series of iconic how-to hair videos by hairdressing legend Sam McKnight, watch as he recreates a 1940s movie star mane, the ultimate glamorous party look.
The Look
“The key to creating that ‘come hither femme fatale’ look,” says Sam, “is in the sexy wave that falls over one eye.” However, unlike the 40’s original which was set on hot rollers and sprayed to set like concrete, the modern version is more touchable. “It’s not over lacquered,” says Sam, “You should be able to run your fingers through it, but the overall look remains – hair should be flat on top and full at the bottom.”
The forties look in six easy steps:
1. Apply a volumising mousse section by section to clean, damp hair. “Don’t be sparing,” says Sam - the whole of the hair needs to be set. Try Sebastian Mousse Forte, £15.75, www.feelunique.com , which gives hair added oomph.
2. Rough dry hair with a hairdryer until 70% dry before blow-drying hair section by section with a professional hair dryer and round bristle brush. This combination creates super smoothness. Try Kent Pure Round Natural Shine Brush, £9.50 www.kentbrushes.com , and every hairdresser’s favourite hairdryer, the Parlux 3200 hairdryer from £59.95, www.parlux.co.uk
3. Next, create a low side parting using a tail comb to create a definite parting line. Sam’s trick to placing the perfect parting is to line it up with the edge of your brow bone. He uses a Denman Professional Carbon Tail Comb, £6.29 www.sallyexpress.com
4. Then, using large professional curling irons, curl hair in sections from the roots to the tips, making sure you curl hair over and under the barrel of the tongs not under and up which would create an entirely different look. Repeat all over the head, pinning each curl into place using a section clip. Sam uses a Large Babyliss Pro Ceramic Dial A Heat Curling Tong, £38.99 www.babylisspro.co.uk . You can get Section Clips from Sally Express, £2.29 for 6 www.sallyexpress.com
5. Leave for at least 30 minutes before removing. Then, using a long-toothed hairbrush such as a Denman Classic Styling Brush, £30 www.denmanbrush.com , brush the curls through. Sam then used a strong hold hairspray to set. He likes Pantene’s Pro V Volume and Body Strength 5 hairspray, £2.99 www.boots.com which holds hair but doesn’t make it hard to touch.
6. To finish, rub a tiny bit of hair pomade through the hands, to smooth down frizz and create dazzling shine. Accessorize with diamante and red lipstick.
Music - When I Fall In Love from Doris Day the Ultimate Collection. Click here to buy from iTunes
Dress - Day Birger et Mikkelsen, £220, earrings Kenneth Jay Lane from www.net-a-porter.com
Hair by Sam Mcknight at Premier Hair and Make-up
Model: Minnie at Premier
Make-up by Liz Pugh at Premier Hair and Makeup using Hourglass cosmetics
Film by North 19 Productions
Directed by Susannah Taylor