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How to do a soft smokey eye with makeup artist Liz Pugh

December 10th 2014 / Hanna Ibraheem

In our next instalment with Urban Decay, makeup artist Liz Pugh shows us how easy it is to achieve a coloured smokey eye – just in time for party season…

Makeup artist Liz Pugh believe that a standard black smokey eye can look quite heavy, so she’s showing us how to get the perfect coloured smokey eye.

First, Liz applied the Urban Decay Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Makeup, £27. This foundation is extremely wearable and weightless, meaning you can easily build on it. She then added the Urban Decay 24/7 Concealer Pencil, £12, under the eyes to brighten the eye area. Liz then set the base by applying Urban Decay’s Naked Skin Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder, £22.

As Liz wants the smokey eye to last all day without any worry of it creasing, she applied Urban Decay’s Eyeshadow Primer Potion in Original, £16. She then took the Urban Decay Naked3 palette, £37, a beautiful collection of rose-toned eyeshadows. First, Liz applied Limit, a neutral shade, all over the lid.

She then took the Urban Decay Naked 24/7 Glide-On Double-Ended Eye Pencil in Naked3, £12, and used Blackheart to draw her top liner by pressing the pencil into the lashes. This shade is perfect for this look as it has a hint of shimmer in it. For the water line, Liz suggests starting just below the pupil and taking it outwards. This look has a rock chick feel to it, so you don’t have to worry about it looking too perfect. These pencils stay put, so blend it before it dries. Liz used the Urban Decay Naked Basics Double-Ended Brush, £17.50, as it allows her to get right into the corners.

Liz then took the other end of the pencil, Darkside, a deep shimmering plum with beautiful red undertones, and worked it over the liner, blending along the way for a softer look. When blending the bottom line, Liz took it outwards to meet the top liner and blended it out further by taking the shades up. Liz says you should avoid taking your liner downwards as this brings the whole face down.

Next, Liz took Buzz, a shimmering shade, from the Urban Decay Naked3 palette and applied it to the centre of the lid and the inner corners, blending it out to lift it. She then took Trick and applied it underneath the eye in the inner corner. This gives the look a luxurious feeling.

Liz then took the shade Blackheart from the palette – the same shade as the eyeliner she used previously – and pressed it over the liner to give it some depth. This shade has beautiful red metallic in it and prevents the pencil from moving.

The trick with this look is to apply the darkest shade in the palette closest to the lash and go lighter as you build it upwards. She then took Strange, the lightest shade, and applied it to the inner corner. As this is a smokey eye, doing this makes the eye pop and will add a hint of brightness to the look.

Liz likes to add a touch of concealer on the brow bone. Here, she used what was left on her brush from earlier. Doing this, instead of using highlighter, gives the look a modern finish.

You can make this look even stronger by adding a touch of pencil into the waterline. Liz used the Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Corrupt, £15, as she felt that black would look too heavy. When applying to the waterline, feed it into the lashes to make sure you don’t have any blank edges.

Liz then moved on to the brows, and picked up the Urban Decay Brow Box, £19, as this is much softer than using a pencil. Taking a palette that matches the hair, Liz applied the powder by mimicking the direction that the hair grows.

As this is a smokey eye look, Liz wants it to be all about the lashes as well. She took Urban Decay’s Subversion Lash Primer, £15, and applied it to the lashes soften them. By using a lash primer, you’ll never have to worry about using false eyelashes again. She then look the Urban Decay Perversion Mascara, £17, and applied this from the root of the lashes to the tips. As it’s a smokey eye, make sure you apply mascara to the bottom lashes as well.

When doing a smokey eye, it’s nice to bring some health to the cheeks. It’s important to keep it tonal, so Liz used the rosy-shaded blusher from the Urban Decay Naked Flushed in Strip, £22, on the apples of the cheek. She then powdered the T-zone and below the eye area using Urban Decay’s Naked Skin Ultra Definition Pressed Finishing Powder, £22, to take away any oil.

The most important part of this look is to appear really healthy. So, if you find that you’ve powdered too much, rub your hands together and use the warmth of your hands on your skin to lift it.

To keep the face uniform, keep your lipstick in line with the shades you’ve already used. Liz pressed Urban Decay’s Revolution Lipstick in Native, £15, into the lips using her fingers. If you find you still want a bit of colour in the cheeks, take any lipstick left on your fingers and press it along your cheeks.


Makeup by Liz Pugh at Premier Hair and Makeup

Hair by Leigh Keates at Premier Hair and Makeup

Model: Giulia at Union Models

Director: Susannah Taylor

Beauty Assistant: Hanna Ibraheem

Production and filming by Pocket Motion Pictures

Guila wears a Vinata Embellished Tunic Dress, £159, from Ted Baker

Disclaimer: Created in partnership with Urban Decay

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