High-frequency facial wands have gone viral on TikTok for blitzing spots but do they work? We ask a skin expert

High-frequency facial wands are all over TikTok right now, championed as the latest must-have skincare gadget. These hand-held, plug-in devices, which look a little like electric water flossers, are, we’re told, brilliant for blitzing acne, smoothing fine lines, reducing redness and – with the appropriate attachment – stimulating hair growth. Sounds like a game-changer but how do they work and are they worth the hype? We asked facialist-to-the-stars Beata Durtan, who has used every facial gadget and gizmo in her clinic over the years.

This seemingly exciting new technology is, it transpires, not exactly new. “It might seem that high-frequency facial wands are the hot new thing on the beauty block but they have been around for ages,” says Durtan. “I studied high-frequency treatment when I was training over 30 years ago and it became a really popular treatment in the 1980s, but the history of high-frequency goes back even further.”

Indeed, high-frequency was discovered over 130 years ago by a French scientist, Jacques-Arsène d’Arsonval, who studied the effect of it on living organisms. It has been used (in high voltages) in skin clinics and spas for a long time as part of multi-step facials to rejuvenate the skin but is seen as a bit basic now, as things like laser treatments and injectable procedures such as Profhilo have become more popular. 

How does a high-frequency facial wand work?

These safe-to-use-at-home gadgets combine electrical currents alongside either neon gas to stimulate skin regeneration and repair, or argon gas to help treat spots. The gas is emitted through the different attachment heads that come with and there are settings for how strong you want to set the electrical current.

@shaielexis

#stitch with @Cara Co. Skin We use high frequency wands alot in esthetics. 😌 If using for anti aging, you’d use it everyday for up to 5 mins. If you’re treating acne, you’d use it for up to 15 secs on problem areas or spots. Super easy and really effective skin tool! #acnejourney🥺 #acneroutineskincare

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You apply the attachment directly to dry skin or use it over medical gauze (which will reduce the sensation if you find it too zappy) and move it slowly around the area you want to treat for one to three minutes. At-home high-frequency facial wands are safe enough to use on a daily basis, either morning or night, but as they are so focused for treating spots you are more likely to reach for it when you have blemishes that need treating.

What does high-frequency do to the skin?

Well, if you believe everything you see on TikTok, there’s not much that a high-frequency facial wand can’t do, but this is where it’s important to separate what in-clinic high-frequency treatments can do compared with an at-home high-frequency facial wand.

Professional in-clinic high-frequency machines operate at around 100,000 – 2500,000 Hz, whereas high-frequency facial wands use around 20,000 to 30,000 Hz. So you are never going to get the same results as you would via a professional as you are in your bathroom.

“When high-frequency is used in a clinic treatment, it’s great for increasing the blood flow in the skin and improving micro-circulation, which in turn is great for reducing inflammation,” says Durtan. “It also has a great effect on excess sebum production, which is good for spot-prone skin types.” There’s also a slightly surprising benefit to in-clinic high-frequency treatments. “They are fantastic for helping with hair loss,” says Durtan. “It can be applied directly to the scalp and on the hair to stimulate hair growth and it’s also good for treating dandruff and an itchy scalp.”

And some of these benefits translate to the at-home high-frequency facial wands. “These gadgets certainly aren’t going to do your skin any harm but I wouldn’t use it all over your face, just target it on any spots you have,” says Durtan. “They will help to kill the spot-causing bacteria which hide under the skin, but please don’t expect too much. Good spot-specific skincare would work equally well, but there’s no harm in using it alongside a high-frequency facial wand.”

If that’s sold it to you then we can recommend Skin Gym High Frequency Facial Wand, £99.

What can you use instead of a high-frequency facial wand?

“I think the best at-home gadget you can invest in is an LED mask,” says Durtan. “They’re easy to use, treat your entire face and feel completely comfortable – whereas a high-frequency facial wand can feel a bit ‘zappy’. If it your LED mask has a red light setting then it will stimulate the skin, increase collagen production and boost elasticity, while a blue light setting is antibacterial and is great for spot-prone skin.”