How to apply highlighter to look glowing and natural (rather than a ’90s throwback)

Cast your mind back to the highlighter of the late ’90s and early 2000s and you might recall obvious, shimmery stripes swept along the cheekbone and dabbed beneath the brow for good measure. Subtle glow it was not.

Part of the problem was the placement but it was also due to a lack of shades – pearly pink was apparently a universal colour for all skin tones – and the formulations. Highlighters then were quite chalky in consistency, which meant they had a habit of sitting on top of the skin rather than sinking into it, giving a ‘stuck-on’ quality that felt more fancy dress than natural.

Now highlighters have had a serious glow-up (sorry, it had to be done). We want skin that looks luminous and lit from within, as if we’re permanently bathed in the world’s most flattering light.

But how do you create that second-skin glow? We asked top makeup artist Lisa Caldognetto, who works her magic on magazine photo shoots, beautifies brides, shares genius makeup tips on her social channels, plus, she is a Get The Gloss Beauty Awards judge for all her expert tips and tricks.

When to apply a highlighter in your makeup routine

“I apply it after foundation, and once I’ve done my blusher and bronzer,” Caldognetto says. “This allows for more contrast and definition, the placement becomes much more intentional, and the highlighter feels like a finishing touch rather than something that gets lost within the base.” She adds: “Be conscious not to have it touching your bronzer or blush, you want to apply it in the space above, as it might turn the colour of the highlighter pastel or ashy.”

Where to apply highlighter

We know we don’t want a single stripe along the cheekbone and under the brow anymore, so where do you put it? “For a contemporary look, cheekbones (but not near your blush) and around the eye are still key highlighting areas, but you always want to apply some around the nose, along the jawline, and above the lip. This creates a subtle contrast to the rest of the face, which will be ‘’flatter’ and so allows the highlighter to catch the light in a really refined way,” Caldognetto says.

Where to apply highlighter on mature skin

“On more mature skin, or if there are concerns around texture or fine lines, the placement needs to be tighter and more precise than on younger skin,” says Caldognetto. “A good guide is to feel for the orbital bone [the bone around the eye] and place the product just along it, keeping it further out on the face than you might initially think. This creates the illusion of lift while avoiding areas where product can settle. Think of it as a soft spotlight rather than a sweep of shimmer.”

Cream or powder highlighter?

It really comes down to what finish you want.

• Cream or liquid highlighters: “Fluid consistencies create a softer, more skin-like finish. They tend to be more forgiving and melt into the complexion, which makes them especially beautiful for everyday wear or for skin that has more texture.”
  

• Powder: “These can be more impactful and brighter in finish, which is great if you want a more defined or polished look. However, they can sit on the surface of the skin, so I often look for formulas with a slightly gel-like texture or hydrating formula to avoid that,” says Caldognetto. 

How to apply highlighter

Rather than sweeping it on in one go, Caldognetto recommends more of a slow and layered approach. 

“Keeping the placement precise and blending the edges so they are soft and blurred into the skin ensures the skin looks luminous and not obviously highlighted. When I want something a little more elevated, I’ll layer a cream highlighter first and then add a touch of powder highlighter right at the centre to create dimension and a more defined point of light. Think of it like a fried egg, with a soft, diffused glow around the edges and a more concentrated highlight at the centre.”

And the texture you choose may also dictate how you put it on the skin. Here is Caldognetto’s advice:

• Creams and liquids: “I often use my fingers to warm up the product and press it into the skin. I also love using the edge of the thumb to gently tap the product onto the cheekbones, as it mirrors the natural shape of the face and helps the product melt in seamlessly.”

• Powder: “I prefer a small, soft, tapered brush with a slightly pointed shape. This allows for a diffused application without it looking heavy or overly obvious.”

Choosing the right highlighter colour for skin tone

Choosing a highlighter colour that genuinely looks like it would be part of your skin is essential for getting the look just right. These are Caldognetto’s suggestions:

• For very fair skin tones: “Shades with a soft pink or pearlescent undertone work beautifully.”

• For light to medium skin tones: “Champagne and soft gold tones are very flattering.”

• For deeper skin tones: “Richer golds, bronzes, and even copper tones bring warmth and radiance without looking ashy.”
  

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