December 30th 2014
This AW14, it’s all about challenging preconceptions of what autumn/winter makeup looks should look like.
The feline flick, traditional red lip and heavier winter colour palettes were given a new season makeover as rose lips, theatrical colours and blue eyeliner took centre stage to provide a bevy of makeup ideas to brighten up even the darkest and longest of winter days.
Here are our 10 favourite AW14 beauty looks straight from London Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week, Milan and New York with some useful makeup tips from the makeup artists themselves to help translate them from runway to reality without a hitch.
As Seen At: Carolina Herrera, Dolce & Gabbana and Burberry Prorsum.
Backstage Beauty Tips: At Carolina Herrera, makeup artist Diane Kendal chose MAC Boysenberry Lipstick from the Fall 14 Trend Forecast/Lip palette, £35 to apply all over models’ lips for a beautiful redefinition of the traditional English Rose look.
Expert Tip: “Rub your finger into the bullet of a lipstick or gloss and press into the centre of the lip. It will disperse out towards the edges, leaving a rose-petal, velvet finish that is intense in the middle and fades out to nothing,” says makeup artist Lynsey Alexander. Try L’Oréal Paris Color Riche L’Extraordinaire in Rose Symphony, £8.99 for hint of feminine colour or Suqqu Creamy Glow Lipstick Moist in 09, £27 for a high shine finish.
As Seen At: Unique, Antonio Berardi and Peter Som.
Backstage Beauty Tips: “This look is reminiscent of those cool girls at school; it’s effortless, simple, lived-in but still quite tough,” said makeup artist Hannah Murray backstage at Unique. Topshop Beauty Kohl in Coal, £4 was applied and smudged in to achieve the polished yet undone definition and emphasis on the lower lash line.
Expert Tip: You don’t have to sleep in your makeup to achieve this look. “A better and kinder way,” says Maybelline UK Makeup Director Sharon Dowsett, “is to apply as usual, perhaps in a more carefree way (not careless) and then remove a little with cotton buds soaked in makeup remover.” Maybelline Eye Studio Master Smoky Shadow Pencil in Black, £5.99 has an in-built smudger which is perfect for carefully blending the edges with.
As Seen At: Julien Macdonald, Ashish and Anna Sui.
Backstage Beauty Tips: Backstage at Julien Macdonald, makeup artist Val Garland made eyes the focus by using eyeshadow palettes that had a stained-glass window feel about them. L’Oréal Paris Color Riche Eyeshadow Quad in Midnight, £7.99 contained the perfect mixture of shades to create a contrasting rainbow of colours that reflected the drama and majesty of the venue – The Royal Courts of Justice.
Expert Tip: “Be free and fabulous with this sort of eye look. It’s colourful and artistic so you should be relaxed and fluid in the application,” says Val Garland. “And it doesn’t have to be too ‘pretty.’ Remember, colour can still look tough.”
As Seen At: Max Mara, Antonio Marras and Chalayan.
Backstage Beauty Tips: Matte burgundy lips with a gothic-feel was the pout of choice at Max Mara. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux described it as, “The curtain at La Scala and a French bordello.” MAC Hearts Aflame Lipstick (available later on in the year), was applied all over for an opaque coverage, with MAC Pro Basic Red Pigment, £17 layered over it to set and create a matte finish.
Expert Tip: “A great way to add colour to the lips without the time and pressure to achieve perfection – you don’t have to apply lip liner, just leave edges soft,” suggests Maybelline UK Makeup Director Sharon Dowsett. Colour Sensational Lipstick in Pleasure Me Red, £7.19 makes for a more purse-friendly alternative or YSL Baby Doll Kiss & Blush in Rouge Libertine, £27 for a makeup multitasker that you can use on the cheeks too.
As Seen At: Matthew Williamson, Marni and Jonathan Saunders.
Backstage Beauty Tips: Lisa Eldridge for Benefit Cosmetics created a, “Glamorous, dramatic and sexy Anjelica Huston inspired makeup for Matthew Williamson.” Benefit Longwear Powder Shadow in Gilty Pleasure and Kiss Me, I’m Tipsy, £15.50 were used on lids, BADgal Waterproof Liner, £15.50 and to finish, They’re Real! Mascara, £19.50 was applied to top and bottom lashes. Skin was given an iridescent sheen using Girl Meets Pearl, £24.50 all over and a combination of BADgal brown Waterproof Liner, Benetint, £24.50 and Ultra Plush Gloss in Bella Bamba, £14.50 achieved the high-shine plum lip colour.
Expert Tip: At Marni, makeup artist Tom Pecheux used MAC Siss Lipstick, £15.50 and Myself Lipstick (out later on this year) on cheekbones to create subtle colour with a waxy finish. “The colour of the skin is a little ‘off,’ the texture a little waxen and twisted – the contradiction of grunge with luxury,” he commented.
As Seen At: Kenzo, Giles and Temperley.
Backstage Beauty Tips: It was all about, “1950s with a slight punk edge,” backstage at Kenzo said makeup artist Aaron De Mey. Proving blue is the new black for the AW14 season, get the look by using MAC Pro Marine Ultra Chromaline, £14 and drawing it through the upper lash line and over the lid to exaggerate and lift the eye.
Expert Tip: “Blue has to go solo – apply in a bold line or a block shape,” recommends Maybelline UK Makeup Director Sharon Dowsett. “Don’t underestimate the elegance of navy, the cheerfulness of turquoise and the regality of royal blue. There is a blue for you! Try it, and you’ll be surprised at how much it suits you.”
Product Picks: If you’re looking for a waterproof eyeliner that allows for expert precision, opt for Eyeko Making Eyes Gel Eyeliner in Midnight Blue, £15. Maybelline Master Kajal in Lapis Blue, £5.99 provides a smokier alternative.
As Seen At: Gucci, Prada and Rochas.
Backstage Beauty Tips: Top and bottom lashes were given equal attention on the AW14 catwalks for a wide awake doe-eyed look that came with the Twiggy seal of approval. The secret? Lashings of mascara using the more modern and technologically advanced of mascara brushes that are out at the moment.
Expert Tip: According to makeup artist Val Garland, “To really clump lashes, try the age-old trick of dusting powder in between mascara applications. We’re talking about five or six layers.”
Products Picks: Open eyes using the Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler, £20 and then go to town using L’Oréal Paris So Couture Mascara in Black, £10.99 or the new Lancôme Grandiose Mascara, £24.50 to enhance even the most hard to reach of inner corner lashes.
As Seen At: Mary Katrantzou, Marios Schwab and Prabal Gurung.
Backstage Beauty Tips: Makeup artist Val Garland opted for a “Blushtopia” look at Mary Katrantzou. “It was perfectly polished skin with a hint of youthful blush. A little Lolita-like as if this was the first grownup party she was attending.” MAC Luna Cream Colour Base, £15.50 was applied onto the upper cheekbones and the centre of the nose for a soft highlight. MAC Ladyblush Cremeblend Blush, £18 was then applied diagonally down the cheeks halfway between the blush and contour for a delicate touch of sculpturing.
Expert Tip: “Use cream textures and your fingers for a light finish, in colours that exist within your skin,” recommends Maybelline UK Makeup Director Sharon Dowsett. Maybelline Baby Lips in Peach Kiss, £2.99 is great for a pop of contouring makeup when you’re on-the-go. Alternatively, opt for Topshop Beauty Metallic Cream Blush in Pulse, £7 for a rose gold sheen.
As Seen At: Donna Karan, Chloe and Altuzarra.
Backstage Beauty Tips: Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury described the look she created for Donna Karan as, “A woman out for a New York night.” Eyes were given a touch of striking metallic illumination using MAC Phone Number Eye Kohl, £14, which was applied through the upper and lower lash lines and buffed up to the brow bones. MAC Pro Platinum Pigment, £17 and MAC Pro Mixing Medium Shine, £16 were mixed together and placed over the inner tear duct and blended over the entire eyelid.
Expert Tip: Keep glitter as mess-free as possible by doing what MAC did backstage at Altuzarra and apply 3D Brass Gold Glitter (available later on this year) using a 266 Small Angle Brush, £16.50 to draw a line through the upper lash line and press into the eyelid with the 252 Large Shader Brush, £23 using the flat side for extra precision.
As Seen At: Jean-Pierre Braganza, Zac Posen and Anthony Vaccarello.
Backstage Beauty Tips: “A tri-liner brings toughness to a classic elegant eyeliner,” said Terry Barber regarding the look he created at Jean-Pierre Braganza. The triple threat began with MAC Pro Black Crème Liner, £14 (0870 034 2676) drawn along the upper lash line as an elegant flick and a line along the lower lash line which was elongated too. The additional ‘Tri’ line was drawn underneath to mimic the lower lash line. Blacktrack Fluidline, £15.50 was pressed over to intensify and Nude Technakohl Liner (available later on this year) was applied through the waterline to open up and brighten the eyes.
Expert Tip: “Practice makes perfect but the result doesn’t have to be,” says Maybelline UK Makeup Director Sharon Dowsett. “Haphazard application is all part of the fun.” For thicker, harder lines try Maybelline Graphic in Black, £5.99.
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