February 28th 2016
How to contour your face with makeup artist Liz Pugh
December 3rd 2014 / 2 comments
In our second video with Urban Decay, makeup artist Liz Pugh shows you how to contour your face, along with other subtle tricks…
Contouring is a massive trend and pops up on the runways season after season. Despite being a 90s look, modern textures have brought the contouring up-to-date.
First Liz applied Urban Decay’s Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Makeup, £27, using the Urban Decay Good Karma Optical Blurring Brush, £20, for a sheer and healthy base. She then applied the Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion in Original, £16, to the lids so that the eye makeup will last. Applying a primer also means that Liz won’t have to apply too much makeup, as it will grab to the primer to deliver a good density without creasing.
Once Liz has finished applying foundation and any concealer, she applied the Urban Decay De-Slick Mattifying Powder, £19.50, and buffered it into the skin. If you’ll be using powder to contour, Liz recommends powdering at this point so that the product doesn’t grab to oil on the skin.
Liz then reached for the Urban Decay Naked Basics Palette, £22, as it’s full of gorgeous neutral shades. To create a socket, look in the mirror and slightly open your eyes up to the point that you see the crease start to form. Apply the colour in the crease (Liz used Faint).
The theory with contouring is that what ever is darker will be pushed back and whatever is lighter will be brought forward. By applying a darker eyeshadow in the crease, you’ll be creating a socket, which will make your eyes appear bigger. Blending is really important, as you want to avoid hard edges.
Follow the shape through to the top and blend it all together. This will lift out the eye and create a hollow. Liz then took the shade WOS and apply it to the lid to bring it forward. Liz also applied WOS to the inner corner of the eye and then mixed WOS and Faint to apply under the waterline.
Liz then took Foxy, a shimmer shade, and applied it in the middle of the lid above the pupil so that it will catch the light and open the eyes. She then used Venus, another pretty shimmer, and applied it to the highest point of the brow arch to lift the eye.
With contouring, you should pick shades that are a few shades darker than your natural skin tone. When blending and shading, always blend upwards to lift the eye.
As Liz is using powder to contour, she wants to remove any oil from the skin and dabs the Urban Decay Naked Skin Ultra Definition Pressed Finishing Powder, £22, across the face. Liz stresses that you shouldn’t wipe the face, but blot it instead so that you don’t move the foundation.
Next, Liz picked up Urban Decay’s Naked Flushed in Streak, £22, to contour the cheeks. First, you need to find the hollow of your cheeks, which can usually be found by sucking in your cheeks. She applied bronzer from the temple mid-way to the mouth. It’s important to blend and take away hard edges so that you don’t have stripes on your face. You can also strengthen your jawline by applying bronzer along then jawline and blending underneath. You can also apply it to the nose, your temples.
You then need to bring some of your feature forward with a highlight (this can also be shimmery). Highlighter should only be applied to the cheekbone. If you go too far in, it’ll make your face look oily. You can also apply the highlighter down the centre of the nose and on your cupid’s bow to make the lips look pouty.
To cheat your lips, take a lip pencil – Liz used Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Lip Pencil in Naked, £13, and drew a line on the outside of the lips – not over the lip line. This enhances the lips and makes them appear fuller.
If you want to apply mascara, wipe the wand so that you have a small amount. Lift your lid and apply a small amount to the roots only, without taking it through the lashes. Liz used Urban Decay’s Perversion Mascara, £17, for a soft look.
To finish the look, brush your eyebrows upwards with Urban Decay’s Brow Box, £19. Brush the powder through your brow, mimicking the hair, up to the highest point of the arch. Then go down from the top so that you don’t close your eye. Then use some brow wax to hold the brows in place.
To get your hands on everything used in this video (and more) visit Urban Decay's first UK boutique at 5 King Street, Covent Garden, London
Makeup by Liz Pugh at Premier Hair and Makeup
Hair by Leigh Keates at Premier Hair and Makeup
Model: Sian at Union Models
Director: Susannah Taylor
Beauty Assistant: Hanna Ibraheem
Production and filming by Pocket Motion Pictures
Sian wears: Whistles Sequin Oversized Crop Tee