‘I’m a skin doctor and can you guess the 3 products I recommend to solve most skin issues?’
Fewer products can mean better results, says Dr Catherine Fairris. Here’s how you can simplify your routine like a pro
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Is your bathroom cabinet an overcrowded mess of half-used skincare? You aren’t alone. As an aesthetic doctor with a keen interest in skin health, I see it every day. Patients come into my clinic totally frustrated and overwhelmed by complicated skincare routines that don’t seem to work.
There are so many active ingredients to know — hyaluronic acid, AHAs, niacinamide, vitamin C, retinol and more. It’s not surprising I hear the same thing from almost all my new patients: “I just don’t know where to start.”
But truthfully, most people don’t need a complicated routine to see results. The key to a healthy, glowing complexion really is simplicity. In fact, I always tell my patients that you only need three ingredient types – yes, just three — in a great routine, to solve most skin issues, including perimenopausal skin.
Why is a simplified skincare routine best?
Overcomplicating your skincare routine isn’t just a problem for your bank balance – or your time-keeping skills (who can really spend that long in front of the mirror?).
By overloading your skin, you also risk harming the outer layer of your skin — the skin barrier. This defensive barrier plays a pivotal role in maintaining hydration, protecting against environmental damage and preventing irritation. I see a lot of over-treated skin that is red, dry and reactive — the result of too many actives and too much confusion.
By keeping things simple and focusing on three product types that protect and repair your skin, you can achieve better results without having to invest in endless products.
These are the the three tried-and-tested skincare ingredient types I really recommend as part of a simple skincare routine. Did you guess them?
Dr Catherine Fairris’ 3 hero product types for all skin concerns: vitamin C, retinoid, SPF 30+
1. Vitamin C serum for the day
After your morning cleanse with a non-stripping cleanser (I like Epionce Milky Lotion Cleanser, £30, gentle and suitable for sensitive and rosacea-prone skin), use a vitamin C serum. Vitamin C is an ingredient I love for daily morning use because it not only improves skin radiance, it also protects against dullness and prevents dark spots from forming. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that protects against skin-damaging free radicals from UV and pollution. It also supports collagen production and can gently inhibit melanin production to even your skin tone and boost brightness.
Look for: L-ascorbic acid at around 10 to 20% concentration or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate at around 3 to 5% concentration for the most potent results.
Top pick: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, £165
Skinceuticals C E Ferulic is an iconic serum with 15 per cent L-ascorbic acid, plus antioxidant vitamin E and ferulic acid to boost the effect of vitamins C and E. The formula provides an excellent skin glow while improving firmness and reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles.
2. Retinoid serum for night
A minimalistic skincare routine can still pack a punch with the right ingredients, and retinoids remain one of the most extensively studied and effective topical ingredients for skin ageing. Whether you choose the ever-popular retinol or the more potent, but potentially more irritating, retinal (find out more about which one is better for your skin here), retonoids can reduce the appearance of fine lines, pigmentation and breakouts, by accelerating cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, and improving skin texture and tone.
Look for: beginner-friendly concentrations, for retinal, 0.01-0.03% is a great place to start. For retinol look for 0.3 or less. For both, apply at night and start slowly to avoid irritation and buffer with a hydrating moisturiser if needed. If you have very sensitive skin, it’s best to start your retinoid journey with a specialist.
Top pick: Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 Serum, £45
Delivering results up to 11 times faster than traditional retinol, but with minimal irritation, Medik8’s Crystal Retinal is designed to make navigating the start of your retinoid journey easy. The brand’s ladder system — whereby you are directed to progress from lower to higher concentrations when you finish each bottle — allows your skin to adapt to using a retinoid slowly, limiting side effects such as peeling and redness.
3. SPF, all year round
Sunscreen is non-negotiable for anyone serious about their skin health and goals. And yes, you do need to wear it every day. It is the single most effective age-defence product we have as it protects against UV damage, which, alongside the very real danger of skin cancer, can cause dark spots, uneven texture and fine lines and wrinkles by breaking down collagen and elastin, our skin’s key structural proteins.
Look for: A broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. And don’t believe SPF myths: there are now brilliant formulas that sit well under makeup, don’t leave a white cast, and won’t break you out.
Top pick: Heliocare Sensation 360 Sunscreen, £31
Heliocare Sensation 360 offers broad-spectrum UV protection while being lightweight and non-greasy — perfect for everyday use. It also doesn’t leave a white cast on skin of colour and contains an extra hit of antioxidants to further protect against free radical damage.
And if you want to add one more, go for growth factors
If you feel like you want to add a little more to your routine, I’m currently very excited about growth factors as an emerging skincare ingredient for tackling signs of ageing. You can use them day and night in addition to vitamin C and retinoids, or instead, as they have broad regenerative benefits.
Growth factors act as signalling molecules, which trigger your natural repair and regeneration processes, helping to boost collagen, improve elasticity, and enhance skin texture. This means they can offer long-term benefits that many basic moisturisers or serums lack.
The in-clinic approach: I love Allskin Med GF Firming Serum, £75, or Allskin Med GF Firming Eye Cream, £50, if your main skin concern is around your eye area. Both products are packed with growth factors, and my patients have seen great results using them to boost skin firmness, treat fine lines, and brighten dark circles. You do need to see a skin expert in clinic for these.
Top pick: For a high-street option, The Ordinary’s skin-smoothing and balancing GF 15% Serum for Visible Skin Repair and Wrinkles is an affordable option at £13.50. Calecim Growth Factor Eye Cream, £99, will help address eye bags and dark circles, with the added benefit of a tightening peptide for instant results while you wait for the longer-term smoothing results.
With that, your whole routine is done and dusted without much fuss.
Head to The Gloss Book to find a qualified skincare expert who can help you build a routine that complements your personal goals.
