By tweaking the placement of your blush you can create the illusion of a little more lift to the face as well as some extra sculpting, and who doesn’t want that? Zoë Taylor shows us just how to do this genius blusher hack
Nearly every makeup artist I have interviewed says that blusher is the most transformative product in your makeup bag. You may think there aren’t that many different ways or techniques to apply blusher, but in fact, by tweaking the placement the result can look quite different. “The apples of the cheeks are most people’s default position for blusher,” says makeup artist Zoë Taylor - who created this gorgeous blusher look for us. She also created a fabulous glitter eye makeup look if that sounds like a bit of you. “But by applying it slightly higher up the face it will give the illusion of extra lift. Taking your blusher around the eye area and creating a slightly monochromatic look - which I know might seem like an unusual move, but trust me and give it a go - will also amplify the lifting effect.”
When it comes to choosing your blusher tone, of course, the world is your oyster. Pick any that appeal, but Zoe’s advice for finding the best match for your skin tone is, “the perfect colour should make you look a little bit hot and sunburnt. If you’re a similar colouring to me, then copy my look. If you’re paler, choose a blush that’s cooler and paler pink. If you have an olive or darker skin tone then choose a shade with more orange in it.”
How to do Zoë’s lifted blush look
Step 1: Go north of the cheekbones
With your base done, start by applying your chosen blusher on the high parts of your cheeks, along your cheekbones and up towards your temples. Concentrating your blusher on the top half of your face will create the illusion of lift. Brush size is as key as the product you’re using. “Most people choose the biggest brush they have but I recommend going smaller as it will give you more control over where you’re placing the product. You can then use a bigger, fluffier brush to blend the product upwards so you don’t have any harsh lines,” says Zoë.
Zoë used: Chanel Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Foschia Rosa, £32.30
Step 2: Blusher on the eyes
Use the same colour on your cheeks as on your eyes, remembering to tap any excess off the brush before you apply to prevent the product from dropping down onto the apples of your cheeks - which is not where you want blusher for this effect. “Using the same colour on your eyes will also really open your eyes up,” says Zoë.
Step 3: Bronzer for warmth
“Bronzer is brilliant for creating extra definition to your face,” says Zoë. “Sweep it down your neck to help create a more chiselled jawline and it will also add warmth to your skin which ties back to the perfect tone of blusher being the one that makes your skin look a bit hot.”
Zoë used: Hourglass Ambient Lighting Bronzer, £54
Step 4: Never too much blush
“Trust me when I say you can never have too much blush on, so after a few minutes once the first layer has settled, go back and add some more for a little more intensity and freshness.” Zoë also recommends sweeping it over the bridge of the nose to add to that healthy skin look.
Step 5: Lift the eyes with liner
“You want the main focus to be on your cheeks but I would add a bit of definition to the eyes with just a bit of eyeliner on the outer corners which you can blend upwards to add to the idea of lifting the face and a coating of mascara,” says Zoë.
Zoë used: Elizabeth Arden High Drama Eyeliner in Espresso, £11.33 Chanel Le Volume de Chanel Mascara, £26.35
Step 6: Go for bold
To add a final bit of colour go over the powder blusher with a cream blusher along the cheekbones and over the eyes. As well as depositing more pigment it will also add a slight sheen to the high part of the face and prevent the powder from looking too flat. Cleverly, if you apply a clear gloss on the lips you create an inverted triangle of light (across the cheekbones and down to the lips) which then adds to the illusion of lift and upward motion on the face.
Zoë used: Chanel Baume Essentiel In Rouge Frais, £29.75 Byredo Liquid Lipstick Vinyl in Fantome 301, £40