Pregnancy skincare: this beauty editor knows exactly what to use – and what to avoid

As a beauty editor going through pregnancy – and doing it solo at the age of 49 – I’ve had to rethink everything I thought I knew about skincare. Normally, I might have reached for more intensive or active formulas: high-strength exfoliants, rich creams, and potent products designed to boost brightness and skin texture overnight. But those are the very things I’ve had to put aside because during pregnancy, my skin just can not tolerate them.

The hormonal shifts hit fast: pigmentation, jawline breakouts, dry patches, and a surge in sensitivity. Some of the products I’d previously trusted – even ones I assumed were gentle – suddenly triggered reactions. It surprised me, because I’d always considered them skin-friendly. But pregnancy has shown me that even well-formulated products can overwhelm skin when the barrier is compromised.

So I’ve stripped everything right back. Pregnancy skin is like its own microclimate – one day glowing, the next flaring up over something I’ve used for years. Even certain foods can make a difference. I also have new patches of pigmentation so SPF is now a daily, year-round essential.

My focus has shifted: instead of chasing brightness or fine-line smoothing, I’ve moved towards managing unpredictability – supporting my skin rather than trying to control it. That’s meant fewer steps, gentler formulas, and an emphasis on barrier care.

I’ve always believed skincare is about more than what we apply – it’s also how we live. During pregnancy, that’s even more true. Sleep, nutrition, rest – they’re as important as serums. But when hormones take over, even the best routines can unravel.

This time has been a lesson in listening: to my body, to my skin, and to what it really needs. With expert advice and a simplified routine, I’ve found a rhythm – one that’s not only helped my skin stay calm, but has also helped me feel more connected to this wild, beautiful transformation.

Hormonal changes in pregnancy: why your skin might react differently

Before my bump was visible, I noticed sudden sensitivity to favourite products, breakouts along my jawline and pigmentation spreading across my cheeks.

Hormonal fluctuations can lead to more sebum (causing breakouts), weaken the skin barrier (causing dryness and reactivity), and stimulate pigment cells (causing melasma).

Consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall explains: “During pregnancy, levels of oestrogen, progesterone and melanocyte-stimulating hormone increase, and these fluctuations can trigger pigmentation, breakouts and increased skin sensitivity. As skin permeability rises, it becomes even more important to simplify your routine and focus on barrier-supportive ingredients.”

Ingredients to avoid in pregnancy skincare – and the safe alternatives that work

Some ingredients are best avoided during pregnancy due to potential risks. Retinoids – including retinol and tretinoin – are well known for their anti-ageing benefits, but because oral versions are linked to birth defects, most dermatologists, including Dr Justine Hextall, advise avoiding them altogether in pregnancy, even in topical form. It’s a cautious approach, but one that feels right given the lack of definitive safety data.

I also found that high-strength exfoliating acids, like glycolic or salicylic acid, became far too irritating for my skin during pregnancy. Although salicylic acid is generally considered safe at low concentrations (2 per cent or under), I noticed more sensitivity and flushing. I’ve since switched to gentler options like polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) and lactic acid, which help with texture and radiance without compromising my skin barrier.

Because my skin is more reactive – and more permeable – I’ve also become more cautious about the chemicals I’m putting on it. I’ve learned that many common skincare ingredients can act as endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs), which means they have the potential to interfere with the body’s natural hormone function. That can be especially concerning in pregnancy, when your body is already hormonally overloaded and doing complex, delicate work.

The most common endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) found in beauty products include oxybenzone (a chemical sunscreen filter) and triclosan, an antibacterial that’s now largely phased out of hand soaps and skincare, but can still be found in some toothpastes and acne treatments, particularly from older stock or less regulated markets. Phthalates, which are plasticisers often used to stabilise synthetic fragrance or improve texture, also fall into this category, along with certain parabens, commonly used as preservatives.

I’ve become more conscious of these ingredients not just for my own health, but because some EDCs have been shown to cross the placenta, which raises concerns about potential impacts on foetal development. While research is still ongoing, and many products are safe in small amounts, the precautionary approach feels right during pregnancy – especially with skin being more permeable and reactive.

Fragrance and essential oils in pregnancy

I stick to mineral sunscreens, fragrance-free or low-fragrance formulas, and barrier-supportive ingredients like ceramides, squalane, and vitamin C. That said, I do use a few products that contain fragrance, which is perfumed but not with “parfum” – and formulated without phthalates, which are typically the bigger concern in fragrance when it comes to hormone disruption. It’s a nuanced area, and not all fragrance is equal – but I always err on the side of transparency and trust in formulation.

Essential oils are another area where I’ve had to be more mindful. Not all are unsafe, but some – like rosemary, clary sage, and tea tree – have been linked to hormonal effects or, in higher concentrations, potential uterine stimulation. I now avoid them unless I’m completely confident in the formulation.

How to treat melasma and pigmentation during pregnancy

Melasma is one of the most common pigmentation concerns during pregnancy. It’s triggered by rising levels of MSH (melanocyte-stimulating hormone), which is responsible for increasing melanin production in the skin. Combined with elevated oestrogen and progesterone, this hormonal surge can lead to uneven skin tone – most often appearing as brown or greyish patches across the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. It’s incredibly common in pregnancy, especially when combined with sun exposure, which acts as a major trigger.

Because I’m due in August, I’ve been especially conscious of this. Summer sun can make melasma worse – even minimal incidental exposure can intensify pigmentation. That’s why broad-spectrum sun protection is completely non-negotiable – not just on holiday or in direct sun, but every single day, all year round. I stick to SPF 50, ideally mineral-based, as it offers immediate UVA/UVB protection and is less likely to irritate reactive skin.

To treat and manage melasma gently, I use azelaic acid – a naturally derived ingredient from grains like barley and wheat. It’s one of the few clinically proven, pregnancy-safe ingredients for pigmentation. Azelaic acid works by reducing inflammation, inhibiting melanin production, and helping to even out skin tone without causing irritation. It’s been a go-to for calming hormonal flare-ups too.

Pregnancy acne: what causes it – and what actually helps

As for pregnancy acne, that’s often driven by progesterone, which spikes during pregnancy and increases sebum production. More oil means more clogged pores – and for me, that’s shown up as hormonal breakouts, especially around the jawline. I’ve taken a preventative approach: using gentle cleansers and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) for non-irritating exfoliation. These give a mild resurfacing effect without compromising the skin barrier – which is especially important when skin is already feeling reactive or unpredictable.

Dry skin in pregnancy: why it happens and how to support it

Dryness is incredibly common during pregnancy, partly because fluid is being redirected to support the baby, and also because your body is producing almost double the blood volume. While this extra blood nourishes the uterus and placenta, it also shifts hydration away from the skin. At the same time, hormonal changes – particularly increases in oestrogen – can disrupt the skin’s natural oil production, weakening the lipid barrier. That barrier is what helps skin retain moisture, so when it’s compromised, it leads to increased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) – in other words, your skin starts losing hydration faster than it can hold onto it.

To combat this, I focus on layering: starting with humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, which draw moisture into the skin from the environment or deeper layers, and then sealing it in with emollients like squalane and ceramides. These help replenish the skin’s lipid layer and reinforce the barrier, making skin feel more hydrated, elastic, and less prone to tightness, flaking or irritation.

I’ve also avoided foaming cleansers, which often contain sulfates or harsh surfactants. These ingredients create that satisfying lather, but they also strip away natural oils – something your skin simply can’t afford to lose when it’s already dry and delicate. A weakened barrier can take longer to recover during pregnancy, so sticking with cream or balm cleansers is much kinder.

And I steer clear of products with heavy fragrance, which can become sensitising when your skin is already more reactive and permeable – a common effect of hormonal changes. During pregnancy, blood vessels dilate more easily, and skin becomes more vulnerable to external irritants. That means even products you previously tolerated well might now trigger redness, stinging, or inflammation, particularly if they’re heavily fragranced or essential-oil based.

Ultimately, pregnancy skincare is about balance. It’s about respecting what your skin is going through, giving it what it needs, and letting go of the urge to overdo it. You don’t need a complex routine or powerful actives right now. Gentle, supportive care is not only enough – it’s often exactly what your skin is asking for.

The best pregnancy skincare