Spikes in your skincare? Why microspicules are the new K-Beauty obsession for glass skin

Korean beauty continues to regale us with intriguing skincare technology and ingredients (who knew snail slime would go mainstream?), and some earn the seal of approval of the nation’s top skin doctors. Dr Christine Hall, whose South Korean heritage has placed her ahead of the curve on K-Beauty trends, is particularly excited about one of them: microspicules. These are tiny needles suspended in your skincare, and they are being feted as a gentler alternative to microneedling that doesn’t break the skin barrier, as well as a route to much-coveted ‘glass skin’.

“I anticipate we’ll only see more of them, both in high-performance skincare and clinical aesthetic treatments,” says Dr Hall, who has created one of the first microspicule facial treatments in the UK, ‘Liquid Microneedling’ at the Taktouk Clinic in London, where she practices (read our review below). More clinics are beginning to follow suit with their own liquid microneedling or ‘biomicroneedling’ treatments.

But what on earth are microspicules, and are they as spiky as they sound? Plus, which are the best microspicule creams ot use at home?

What are microspicules in skincare, and what do they do?

Spicules are derived from sea sponges, part of the exoskeleton that gives them their distinctive structure. They are made up of natural minerals such as calcium and silica and can also be replicated in a lab.

They look like tiny needles or jagged little structures under the microscope. In skincare, they have two main benefits:

1. Exfoliation. First, they are a gentle way to exfoliate the superficial skin layer. “Unlike crushed walnut shells or other rigid scrubs from the 1980s, microspicules are far smoother, gentler and significantly smaller, invisible as they are to the naked eye,” says Dr Hall. Rather than tearing the skin, their ‘design’ allows for micro-stimulation that promotes cellular turnover. In this way, their action is similar to that of microneedling. but without the risk of redness or long-term damage.
2. Help actives go deeper. Secondly, they are a minimally invasive way to help deliver skincare actives deeper into the skin, so making products much more effective, says Dr Hall. The absorption rate is up to 60 times greater, says Dr Hall, who uses the clinic brand Idenel. It solves one of skincare’s biggest challenges: the fact that so few ingredients penetrate the skin barrier. Microspicules help this penetration without affecting the health of the barrier – your skin won’t go red or become sensitive.

Spicules settle under your skin’s surface, where they hang around and form tiny microchannels for about 24 hours, before being exfoliated away through our normal skin cell shedding process, explains Dr Hall. Provided you don’t actually rub your product on your eyes, the tiny spines will not migrate there and cause trouble

Microspicules come from sea sponges, and are used in facials

How do microspicules help create glass skin?

The ‘glass skin’ trend is huge in Korea, and microspicules are a key ingredient in the quest for a smooth, glassy skin surface. “Microspicules have been integrated in Korean skincare for over a decade because they really help to create smooth, radiant skin without the trauma associated with harsher exfoliants,” says Dr Hall.

When they are layered with gentle active and hydrating ingredients, you will get those very desirable visible improvements in texture, tone and radiance, promises Dr Hall.

You may also come across the word ‘reedles’ or ‘cica reedles’, which are essentially the same thing. “These are microscopic needles derived from sea sponge, and ‘cica reedles’ is the trademarked name as used by the Korean brand VT Cosmetics,” says Hall. Cica reedles are coated with a soothing skincare ingredient: cica, or centella asiatica.

Who are microspicules best for?

Hall says microspicules tend to be well-tolerated by most skin types, but are particularly beneficial for dull, uneven skin and early signs of ageing. However, if you have active eczema, psoriasis, or a severely compromised skin barrier, you may want to stay away or ask a pro.

What happens in a microspicule ‘liquid microneedling’ facial?

The Taktouk Clinic in London was the first to introduce ‘liquid microneedling ‘ to meet the trend not just for glass skin, but because consumers are increasingly looking for evidence-based, minimally invasive solutions with less downtime. “Microspicules meet these demands,” says Dr Hall.

“At £250 for a 45-minute facial, Liquid Microneedling is nowhere near as expensive as conventional microneedling, nor does it require numbing cream or leave you with a bright red, tight-feeling face for 24 hours while your skin recovers,” says Get The Gloss Editorial Director Victoria Woodhall, who tried it.

“The only ‘downtime’ is a ban on wearing makeup for the rest of the day. Aesthetician Nadia Amnian, who carried out my treatment at the Taktouk Clinic, explained that this is because the spicules open microchannels in the skin for greater product penetration. You need a course of five, one every one to two weeks, as it’s important to keep the skin stimulated, says Nadia, in order to get good results. Conventional microneedling is usually a course of three, once a month.

“It’s a simple procedure, a cleanse followed by a hydrating mist (the more hydrated you are, the better the microspicules work) and then a serum, into which the microspicule powder has been mixed. Nadia pressed it into my skin manually for a few minutes. Gradually, a prickly sensation built as she pushed the microspicules in more. It felt as though I’d brushed past a cactus with tiny spines. It would be a stretch to describe it as painful.

Victoria Woodhall tries Liquid Microneedling at London’s Taktouk Clinic with aesthetician Nadia Amnian,

“The serums can be tailored to offer a combination of brightening, hydrating, clarifying and anti-ageing, and they are suitable for sensitive skins of all tones. You’re not just getting powerful clinical-grade peptides, but thanks to the microspicules, you are getting up to 60 times better penetration, making this akin to a skin booster without the needles.

“The treatment finished with a ‘locking in’ ceramide cream to seal in all the goodies, and protect the barrier, and a relaxing, cooling mask to take down the minimal amount of redness. I was sent home with an Idenel aftercare containing a cleanser, the locking in cream, a peptide microspicule cream and  SPF. After 24 hours, you can use your normal skincare again. I was warned that my skin would feel a bit spiky for a couple of days, after which the spicules would miraculously disappear. The pressing became quite addictive!

“As it’s an exfoliating treatment, I did see brighter skin almost immediately. My deeper-seated pigmentation is set to surface over the course of five treatments, meaning there may be a bit of darkening before my glass skin emerges.

“This is an exciting treatment that bridges the gap between creams and needles, perfect for needle-phobes or sensitive skin. Even those with rosacea can have the treatment, says Nadia, as it’s so gentle yet powerful. Idenel makes a Revitalizing Nourishing Cream with peptides microspicules that you can buy in-clinic only to carry on the effect at home. It also feels spiky, but only for the evening that you apply  it.

How to use microspicule skincare?

Despite their relative gentleness, it’s best to allow your skin to adapt to microspicules: they are often described as feeling a bit like stinging nettles. Hall advises starting with a low concentration of spicules; they are always applied right after cleansing and before serums or creams

For daily use, a low 0.1 to 1% is considered good. In ‘reedle’ products, this would equate to  50 (0.5%) or 100 (1%).

For a twice-weekly treatment, 10% (or 1000 for reedles).

Avoid applying them to sensitive or inflamed areas, particularly around the eyes, and pair their use with hydrating and barrier-supportive ingredients (these may already be in your spicule product, or you could layer a barrier cream over your spicule serum) to maximise benefits while reducing the risk of irritation. As this is an exfoliating treatment, sun protection is essential.

Microspicule skincare to try at home