Just when you thought you got your head around retinol, along comes retinal as a star age-proofing ingredient. But what exactly is retinal and which are the best retinal serums?
Tomay-to, tomah-to, potay-to, potah-to…. retinol, retinal? You’d be forgiven for feeling slightly bemused by the hype over retinal, the anti-ageing and acne-busting skincare ingredient that sounds practically the same as retinol and appears to offer the same benefits as well. But retinal (also called retinaldehyde) is different from its sibling retinol in quite a number of ways: it works 11 times faster, it’s less irritating, it’s antibacterial, and it isn’t affected by new EU regulations on retinol, which will start to take effect later this year. Here is everything you need to know about this A-list active.
What is retinal?
Retinal is a form of vitamin A, and therefore a member of the retinoid family. This is the ‘royal family' of skincare ingredients that offer fewer lines and wrinkles, faded pigmentation, a reduction of spots and oiliness, and healthier-looking, more radiant skin. The family’s most famous denizen is retinol.
The actual active ingredient - the bit that does all the work- in retinol and other retinoids is retinoic acid. This is considered a medicine that only doctors can prescribe as a cream, usually under the trade name Tretinoin or Retin-A. It’s the most potent of retinoids and is backed by decades of clinical research.
Now, retinal is a relatively new cosmetic retinoid that appears in some studies to be just as effective as the medicine retinoic acid – but without the irritation and flakiness that is almost inevitable with the latter, especially when you first start using it. “It's a skin rejuvenator and works a treat to prevent and manage acne,” says cosmetic physician and author of The Face Bible Dr Raj Arora.
Retinal is less irritating than retinol. That is big news and the reason why formulators and skincare fans are loving the ingredient. Visibly skin-transforming but without any drawbacks? We’ll have some of that.
How does retinal work in the skin?
Like other retinoids, retinal is a ‘cell-communicating ingredient’ that normalises healthy skin function, helping restore it to optimal, youthful ‘settings’. In practice, this means it speeds up the rate at which skin regenerates and old cells shed, bringing fresh, glowing cells to the surface faster. As a result, wrinkles plump out, brown spots lighten, and you get what’s often called the ‘retinol glow’.
Oil production in the skin is also normalised, meaning fewer oil slicks, greasy T-zones and spots. And there’s more: “Retinoids help strengthen the skin barrier, reduce water loss, and protect existing collagen fibres,” says facialist Fiona Brackenbury.
So far, so many similarities between retinal and retinol….
So why is retinal ‘better’ than retinol?
For starters, retinal works faster. Once absorbed into the skin, explains cosmetic chemist and founder of skincare consultation service Renude.co Pippa Harman, all retinoids must convert into active ingredient retinoic acid in order to be used by the body. This happens in steps – and where retinol is two steps away, retinal needs just the one step to become retinoic acid. “Because every step reduces the effectiveness of the retinoid, this means retinal can deliver more retinoic acid into the skin than retinol,” says Harman.
One published clinical study showed that the rate of this conversion is 11 times faster than that of retinol. Impressive, but it doesn’t necessarily mean your skin will change in a month rather than a year. “The study was done in a petri dish,” says Harman. “Inside living skin, you get lots of variables, such as individual cell turnover and metabolism.” Brackenbury adds that “the health of our skin, our age and our lifestyle including external stresses from pollution and the sun all influence skin’s ability to convert the ingredient”.
There’s another reason why retinal wipes the floor with retinol: like pure retinoic acid, retinal is antibacterial whereas retinol is not. So, while retinol is great for reducing breakouts, retinal, with the added benefit of nuking bacteria, is better. “Fewer bad bacteria mean less of a chance to develop spots and acne, and overall clearer skin,” says Brackenbury.
Why is retinal less irritating than retinol?
If retinal is so much closer to pure retinoic acid than retinol, and acts faster than retinol, how can it possibly cause less irritation than retinol and prescription Tretinoin?!
Retinal, being incredibly unstable (meaning it loses its potency or ‘goes off’ the moment it’s exposed to oxygen, light or water), has to be encapsulated, ie formulated in microscopic protective bubbles. This doesn’t just protect the ingredient, says Isaacs, it protects the skin as well, as the potent active isn’t dumped into the skin all at once, but slowly released instead. This "allows it to reach the correct layer of the skin before breaking down into retinoic acid," says Dr Arora.
That said, “both retinol and retinal can cause some irritation, particularly when first introduced,” says Harman. “So they should be applied to the skin gradually, starting with a low concentration two evenings per week, and building up every two weeks until you’re using each evening. From then on, be consistent: "Compliance is key with retinal when it comes to lasting results," says Arora. It’s the same, of course, for retinol, which has benefitted from the encapsulation technology necessitated by retinal: today, there are a lot of advanced, encapsulated retinols as well, bringing the irritation potential down and making it much more user-friendly for all skin types.
Will retinal be affected by the new EU regulations on retinoids?
No, which is another reason why retinal is well on its way to becoming the most popular cosmetic retinoid. From the end of this year, retinols will start disappearing off the shelves in strengths higher than 0.3 per cent, while body retinols will no longer be produced with concentrations of more than 0.05 per cent of the ingredient. (The UK is of course not part of the EU any more, but skincare brands are unlikely to differentiate between the UK and other European countries and will sell the same products across the continent). The irritant potential of retinol is one of the main reasons these rules have been implemented, so retinal’s low irritancy, alongside the fact that you need quite low concentrations for it to work, explains why it’s exempt from restrictions.
It means it will be easy to buy a powerful retinal product while retinol creams and serums will legally be blocked from being too potent. So fans of ‘hardcore’ anti-ageing are probably set to switch to retinal in their droves.
What is the most effective concentration of retinal?
“For impressive results from an over-the-counter product you need a percentage between 0.01 per cent and 0.1 per cent retinal,” (yes, we’re talking tiny percentages here) says Dan Isaacs of Medik8. The ‘sweet spot’ percentage (big results, little irritation) seems to be 0.06 per cent.
These strengths are much lower than those needed for retinol to have the same effect. To get retinol’s anti-ageing benefits, it’s best to start at 0.1 per cent. Before the new legal restrictions, 1 per cent was as high as you could go without professional guidance. Now, your maximum retinol concentration will be 0.3 per cent.
Watch out if a brand boasts of a much higher than 0.1 percentage of retinal: they are likely talking about their retinal complex, or a blend of actives including retinal. Either that, or you’re talking about a product that ought to be sold under professional guidance, like Medik8’s clinic-only Crystal Retinal 20 (0.2 per cent retinal).
What should I look for in a good retinal product?
Ingredient encapsulation and stability complexes. Because, like most retinoids, retinal can cause some dryness, hydration boosters such as glycerin and plant oils are a welcome addition. A choice of strengths is good, so you can build up your tolerance. Avoid transparent bottles and look for air-tight pump dispensers: both are essential for keeping the ingredients stable. And if your product is a lurid yellow or orange that is a good thing: the ingredient is naturally the colour of a ripe banana.
Are there any downsides to retinal?
It works for pretty much everyone, except pregnant women: like the majority of retinoids, it’s contra-indicated in pregnancy. As UV light degrades it, you should only use it overnight, and because it brings so many baby-fresh cells to the surface, you should always wear an SPF50 during the day – but you did that already, didn’t you?
The 14 best retinal creams and serums
The holistic retinal: Raaie Yellow Moonbeam Retinal Elixir, £115
This lovely-to-use emulsion has 0.1 per cent (that’s a lot) encapsulated retinal, plus bakuchiol, niacinamide, algae, rosehip, flaxseed and hyaluronic acid in a largely plant-based formula and pebbly, tactile bottle you’ll want to roll around in your hands all day.
The fast retinal: Kate Somerville Mega A Skin Transforming Serum, £72
With 88% of testers (we don’t know how many) reporting their skin felt firmer in four weeks, this is a fast-acting retinal in the shape of a light, silky serum that leaves skin with an instant glow. It's strong too, with a 0.1% concentration of the active. It's encapsulated in a slow-release formula though, which means that in tests, very few people complained of irritation, even if they were first-time users. It also has hyaluronic acid and squalane for plumpness, and we've seen some impressive acne-controlling effects on real-life skin.
The vegan retinal: Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum, £32
Boasting a good 0.05 per cent retinal, the active is ‘sustained-release’ which points to it being encapsulated to keep it from oxidising. It’s a pale yellow (retinal is yellow in colour) and very light-textured cream that will suit oily skins, with added fermented oligopeptides to supercharge the retinal’s skin texture-refining and brightening powers. Like all Naturium products, it’s vegan, cruelty and fragrance-free.
The combo-retinal: Skin Rocks Retinoid 2 Vitamin A Face Serum, £75
Caroline Hirons’ retinoid serum for advanced users has 0.05 per cent retinal, 0.5 per cent hydroxypinacolone retinoate (a retinoid with less of the clinical backing than retinol and retinal enjoy) and plant-derived retinol alternative bakuchiol, and is perfect for maintaining a radiant, even complexion. Relatively rich and moisturising so as to off-set any potential dryness, this can be used on its own as your nighttime treatment.
The firming retinal: Murad Resurgence Retinal Resculpt Overnight Treatment, £105
Promising noticeably more lifted skin and less-deep wrinkles backed by impressive unretouched before and after images, this has an undisclosed amount of retinal in a delivery system designed to make sure the active penetrates deeply and stays at peak potency. Given that it’s Murad, it’s probably quite sophisticated. The serum is not yellow like other retinals, but our tester reported that it was pretty strong and that she had to dial back from using it every night. There are botanicals to work synergistically with the retinal and oat lipids and alpha glucan to boost ceramide production and help calm skin and fortify the barrier, all in a weighty, recyclable glass bottle.
The affordable retinal: Elf Youth Boosting Advanced Night Retinoid Serum, £22
An impressive 0.06 per cent retinal plus 1 per cent granactive retinoid (like retinol but a lot milder) to smooth skin and tackle acne, plus antioxidants from licorice and acai to protect skin. It’s mildly scented and not too greasy and users are giving it the thumbs-up despite there being no mention of an expensive encapsulation system to keep the product effective. If you use it up relatively swiftly, it’s probably a very good buy.
The retinal-for-all: Medik8 Crystal Retinal, £45 - £99, depending on strength
Medik8’s helpful ‘ladder system’ offers four retinal strengths (numbered 1, 3, 6 and 10) you can pick up off the shelf. It allows everyone to find their entry point and progress without sensitivity, with most people starting at Crystal Retinal 3’s 0.03 per cent retinal. If you’re very sensitive, try CR1 (0.01 per cent), and once you’re all good with the high-strength CR10 (0.1 per cent) you might want to go wild with the clinic-only, super-strength Crystal Retinal 20, £74.25. Powered by a patent-pending encapsulation system the brand are justifiably proud of, and enriched with plant oils, antioxidants and vitamin C, these are light, fool-proof moisturisers with superpowers.
The overnight skin-softening retinal: Allies of Skin Retinal + Peptides Repair Night Cream, £115
A skin-cosseting night cream that fights ageing from all angles: it has an encapsulated 0.02 per cent retinal (a percentage that should suit the majority of skins comfortably), high levels of antioxidants for damage repair, firmness-boosting peptides, softening oils and hydrating hyaluronic acid. Leaves skin baby-soft by daybreak and comes in quite a large tube that goes some way to justifying the price.
The barrier-repair retinal: Skinsense Ceramide 24 Silk Night Serum, £46
This innovative formula packs a real punch for its price: 0.1 per cent retinal is grafted with glycerin for deep hydration, and combined with ceramides, fatty acids and niacinamide to continuously restore the skin barrier in a silky, gently scented cream. If that’s not enough, you get collagen-boosting bakuchiol, gently exfoliating lactic acid and the brand’s lamellar technology, which releases active ingredients slowly and deeply.
The triple-threat skin refiner: Sarah Chapman Vitamin A Power 1 Face Serum, £90
This lightly scented serum has retinol and retinal (unfortunately, no percentages are forthcoming) AND epidermal growth factor, all in an exclusive delivery system. There are anti-inflammatory ingredients too, which will be helpful in what sounds like a powerful collagen-boosting and texture-smoothing blend.
The refillable retinal: Trinny London Retinal+ Overnight Sensation, £75 (refills £60)
Another double-retinoid blend: this time it’s retinal plus granactive retinoid (a non-irritating but lesser-proven member of the vitamin A family) and 0.25 per cent for the complex. The silky, vivid-yellow (that’s a sign there’s a good dose of retinal in there) lotion promises to counteract sagging skin in your 40’s and upwards, and incurs no sensitivity but does cause yellow stains on your pillowcase if you don’t watch out: give it a few minutes to sink in. Extra points for the eco and purse-friendly refills.
The cheapest and strongest retinal: The Ordinary 0.2% Emulsion, £15.20
Seconded by a host of anti-inflammatories and antioxidants, this has the highest percentage of retinal available (so high that Medik8 sells its retinal of this strength only in clinics], and the brand rightly cautions that it’s meant for dyed-in-the-wool retinoid users (so if you’ve used prescription retinoic acid, or retinol at high strengths (0.5 per cent and higher) for years, you’ll be fine. If this doesn’t irritate your skin, results will be swift and obvious.
The skin tone-evening ayurvedic retinal: Sachi Ursolic Acid & Retinal Overnight Reform, £76
Proving that tradition and cutting-edge technology can go hand in hand, this 0.05 per cent retinal is uniquely combined with liposomal (for deep delivery), and anti-inflammatory ursolic acid in a fresh-feeling, unscented lotion. It also boasts a restorative tripeptide and potent plant soothers and antioxidants (black cumin, oat oil, bakuchiol, glutathione, holy basil, etc.) to tackle spots, fade hyperpigmentation (it’s great for darker skin tones), and soften lines.
The retinal for mature, spot-prone skin: Paula’s Choice Clinical Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment, £63
This unscented, neon-yellow cream uniquely teams retinal at 0.1 per cent with 0.16 per cent adapinoid, a precursor of prescription-only retinoid adapalene. Particularly good at unclogging pores and so preventing acne, adapinoid is also anti-inflammatory and causes less dryness and irritation that retinol and retinoic acid while still smoothing away wrinkles. So if you want to nix both breakouts and signs of ageing, this is ideal.