It’s the latest wonder ingredient promising firmer skin – the 6 best copper peptide serums

If you’re on the hunt for a skincare buy that can improve firmness, boost hydration and encourage healthy cell renewal, a copper peptide serum should be top of your list. While a few years back the phrase copper peptide meant very little, these days we’re a lot savvier when it comes to decoding the contents of our favourite formulas.

In fact, 65% of beauty buyers regularly read the INCI list (the ingredients on the back of a product label) to identify specific ingredients, according to data from the Benchmarking Company. A sure sign that we know what we’re looking for. Whether hunting for hyaluronic acid, clocking the vitamin C content or examining exosome levels, we’re more attuned to the latest and greatest cutting-edge actives and ingredients. Step forward, copper peptides.

Blue is the colour: writer Georgia testing copper peptide serums

To understand the current excitement around copper peptides, it’s worth understanding exactly what makes peptides so special in the first place. They’ve actually been used by formulators for decades but they’ve now stepped into the skincare spotlight thanks to developments in peptide science and formulation innovation.

There’s also plenty of interest in injectable copper peptides via the wellness industry, with injectable peptides controversially hawked for everything from weight loss and improved cognitive function and sleep. And that is having a halo effect of why copper peptides in skincare are coming back into the spotlight. The reason they’re so widely used in skincare though is the central role they play in encouraging and maintaining cellular processes, helping skin stay in optimal health and looking and feeling great.

“Peptides are short chains of amino acids, essentially the building blocks of proteins such as collagen and elastin,” explains Dr Sabika Karim, aesthetic doctor, global educator and founder of Skin Medical. “In skincare, they act as signalling molecules, communicating with skin cells and encouraging processes such as collagen production, repair and hydration. Different peptides have different functions, leading to improved skin health and appearance.”

While lots of peptides exist in skincare formulations, the type of peptide you plump for matters, which is why so many trusted brands opt to use copper peptides. Also known as GHK-Cu, copper peptides are naturally occurring complexes made up of a short peptide bound to a copper ion. Like plenty of other structural components of skin, the natural production of them declines with age, with some experts estimating a reduction of about 60% between the ages of 20 and 60.

How do copper peptides differ from other peptides?

While other peptides simply act as signalling messengers telling the skin what it needs to produce, copper peptides go one further, instructing the body to produce crucial proteins like collagen and elastin while also transporting copper itself to cells. “Copper is essential for repair, regeneration and enzymatic activity,” explains Katherine Pye, product formulator and CEO of Wildsmith Skin. “So rather than just prompting the skin to act, they’re also giving it what it needs to do the job properly. It’s less about quick fixes, and more about helping the skin return to a state where it can function well on its own.”

Can everyone use copper peptides?

The good news is that because copper peptides naturally occur in the body, they’re generally considered low risk and are pretty well tolerated. While all skin types can benefit from what they have to offer, they make a particularly good addition to your routine if your skin is stressed, sensitive or feeling especially depleted or lacklustre.

Are there any actives to avoid using with copper peptides?

As with lots of other potent ingredients, copper peptides can be a little sensitive to other actives.. Experts will usually tell you to avoid using your copper peptide serum at the same time as vitamin C, retinoids and strong acids, so best practice is usually to use separate your actives out into AM and PM routines to minimise adverse reactions.

What other ingredients do copper peptides work well with?

“Copper peptides tend to work best in a balanced, barrier-supportive routine rather than an overly aggressive one,” says Karim, so think soothing, supportive ingredients that prioritise hydration and optimal skin function. “Hyaluronic acid boosts hydration and helps the copper peptides to penetrate the skin more effectively while niacinamide aids barrier function and helps to reduce inflammation. Ceramides strengthen the lipid barrier of the skin,” adds Karim. If you’re a retinoid user, they work well as a foil to any potential irritation as they aid healing and tissue repair, just ensure you use on alternate days to your retinol.

Why are copper peptide serums often blue?

It’s due to the complex that’s created when copper ions bind to peptides. This produces a blue colour when it interacts with light, so rest assured any azure hue is a completely natural occurrence. “The distinctive colour is actually related to the ingredient’s chemical structure rather than added dye,” explains Karim.

Which copper peptides serum is right for me?

Think about your skin goals and what you’d like to achieve, alongside the boost in collagen and elastin that the copper peptides will deliver. So, if it’s added hydration, look for a copper peptide serum with additional hyaluronic acid or squalane, while soothing ingredients like ectoin are a great added extra if you’re prone to sensitivity. Here’s our pick of the bunch.